Get in touch with Pleiades on 01487 831239. Quote them the RP number, give them the rough measurement for double-checking and they'll make you the pipe.

Clean off the excess mastic on the body. Clean (if necessary) both surfaces. Use a bead of new mastic about 10mm thick and run this along the existing mastic bead on the skirt. This will save you having to prime the surfaces. Gently align the skirt and rivet it into place while wet. I used Sika Tack...

This method has worked for me twice. Obtain a piece of steel about 1m long, 30mm by 5mm section (or thereabouts). Grind a chisel-style point on one end about 30mm long. Drill out rivets and remove rear wheel. There is a gap at the back of the rear skirt, locate the 'chisel' in there so it is facing ...

Think yourself lucky. I've got to drive around in a lilac Hyundai Accent whilst I change the gearbox! (and a few other bits......). Shame about the bearings though, it always seems to happen when the car's running nice

I quite agree with the above sentiments in that it would probably simpler to keep using the drive cables rather than changing. Having had no end of hassle getting the speedo to work reliable at slow speed (occasionally I have to do this....) I wouldn't mind experimenting. I've even had brand new cab...

After meeting Luke today I popped the question as to whether it was possible to fit a generator (or other electronic device) into the speedo cable attachment on the gearbox and then drive the speedo off this, therby cutting out that wonderful slow-speed speedo needle jump that we're probably all fam...

As it says on the label folks, mine's vibrating so badly it feels on the point of self-destruction.

Cheers,

DG.