clutch cable

All aspects of tuning,modification and repairs to the BX 16valve.
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tim leech
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clutch cable

Post by tim leech »

An easy job for a novice like myself, how much should I pay, my car has A/C so has lots if extra pipes!
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Toddman
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cable

Post by Toddman »

I have never fitted one on a BX only removed a couple from valvers and that has been a doddle - so I can't offer much help other than I would think it is a doddle to fit a new one.

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
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Timmo
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Post by Timmo »

i would have thought it would be an easy job BUT! alarm bells are ringing here, i vaguely remember something about them being an absolute swine to do from the bxclub forum i think it was when Vanny and Cavmad went to rescue one???
loike luke, i cant say for sure, but rest assured, get a few mates to help and it'll take five minutes, do it on your own and you'll be there all day! :wink:
Timmo 8)

After all i am the Cornish one!

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

they are fairly straight forward to do, best to buy the cable from Citroen as they last longer and are the right length. You will need to undo the pedal box (i've managed to do it a few times without, but its a swine) which is the only real stumbing block as often the bolts are chewed up (i now carry spare bolts in the tool kit, and i must add that the current Citroen replacements are MUCH better quality).

Also, when pulling the cable out, pull it out from the gearbox end having first attached a very long wire/string to the pedal box end, makes hauling in the new cable much easier. Further, once you have removed the old cable, you should be able to adjust the new cable to the same length less 1/4 inch (to take in the slack of the old cable) and when you refit it should be nice and tight and not need further adjustment (a much time saving exercise). Only tools you really need are a couple of spanners for adjustment, and allen keys to remove the pedal box. There is NO need to remove the steering column facia.

expect to pay around £80 ish to have someone else do it. Probably a 30 minute job for someone experienced, for a first attempt perhaps allow a half day.

AC pipes do NOT make the job any harder so long as they are OEM fitment
tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Ahh right ok, thanks, will wait for the better weather and have a go myself, how much are cables from Citroen, a fortune I expect! GSF are about £15 with my trade discount.
ollie
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Post by ollie »

Bloody nightmare is more like it! which is a shame as the basic BX's can be very very easy!

Can be done without removing pedal box but by far the worst part is the little steel plate which holds the rubber cover as it enters the engine bay, this is normally held by little philips headed screws but whilst you can see them its virtually impossible to get a screwdriver on them, you can try a cranked driver, or using a 1/4 inch ratchet with a philips bit in it, either way its just a nasty position to lean into.

Everything else is easy just a case of following the original routing.

PS you think its tight down the back of 16v engine try getting at heater hoses on a Turbo diesel.........
Frenchracingblue
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Post by Frenchracingblue »

Jack up, stands under the chassis legs, jack under the engine. Take the top engine mount off and roll the engine forward top gain proper access to the rubber sock on the bulkhead, it's held in by two self tapping bolts i think 7mm heads. pedal box is held in by two 11mm nuts that retain the doseur valve, once the nuts are off, push the brake pedal down a bit to shove the valve out of the way of the studs. theres a little socket cap screw holding the pedal box in which is either 4 or 5mm allen. disconnect the throttle cable and brake light switch and with the other end of the cable disconnected it should all start to make sense, That lot takes 15 minutes to do and gives you a better chance of not hearing the engine after the job through a torn or mis fitted clutch cable sock. once the pedal box is out, check it's not cracking at the throttle pedal mounting, now's your chance to have it welded, also check it's welded ok and absolutely square at where the clutch cable fits in the guide, BXs eat cables if an old clutch has been left in too long and overloaded the pedal assembly. later cars have an extra weld but still not perfect. suspect misalignment and very short new cable life especially if cable broke at the pedal end. Oh and always keep a new uk clutch cable in the recess by the heater if you are heading abroad, LHD one's half the length!!!!!!!
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Toddman
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cable

Post by Toddman »

Also aren't the 16v cables the same as a 1.7TD ?

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
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Simran
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Post by Simran »

As ollie said, the worst bit is that steel plate on the engine side of the bulkhead, I think they were small hex heads on mine cant remember how i did it exaclty but i think i used ratchet spanners, theres just enough space to get the ratchet to click once each sweep. The rest is easy and can be done without taking the pedal box out, if you're fairly flexible, you can squeeze your torso into the footwell with your head and arms down there and then you have full movement for hooking the cable onto the pedal, looks funny and is a bit weird working upside down but it works :lol:
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docchevron1472
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Re: cable

Post by docchevron1472 »

Toddman wrote:Also aren't the 16v cables the same as a 1.7TD ?

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Luke
Yep.

It's not a hard job, when you've done a few, although it is much easier with the engine out.
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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

Whats all this about getting the cover plate off from above? I get at it from below and never thought it was that big of a problem, especially not as you have to jack the car up anyways. And i certainly dont disconnect the throttle cable.


Out of interest, does it actually need changing or adjusting, as it sounds like your giving the car a bit of a belting everywhere you go so it can't be all that bad.

Also, the cost of buying the cable at Cit is irrelevant as its the only way to get the right cable. GSF cable might look like good value, but if your keeping the car then you would be better off with the right cable. Personally i've picked up 3+ genuine cable for less than £5 each from ebay/ccc meets.
Frenchracingblue
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Post by Frenchracingblue »

Hi, the way i've described to fit the cable is based on experience, i've also given the mobile version if you like! it takes about an hour if you know the way round but of course a bit longer on the first one. if you don't take the pedal box out, you don't get to inspect it. i've had to realign and modify over 50 of those weak right hand drive pedal boxes, so it's worth looking. Also removing the top engine mount and rolling the engine forward is so easy to do and it makes it possible to get a quarter drive socket on the rubber sock bolts= after the pedal box bolts out, which releases the brake valve out of the way from the path of the quarter inch ratchet you can then use on those tiny bolts on the sock. It all just makes it so easy to do a nice comfortable job. And with a properly aligned pedal and a healthy clutch, the cable will never break again. BX clutch cables only fail because they are subjected to more than their design load, which means they are often distorted at the pedal end. You should be able to easily push the pedal to the floor with your hand. one finger with a new clutch/ straight pedal/ new cable/ straight actuator rod on the gearbox. By the way, ordered new wheels in 8 x 16 and 7 x 16 for a new BX16V racer i'm building yesterday!
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