AFM / AFS

MZWiZard · Post by **MZWiZard** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:03 pm

Did anyone ever find a way to replace the "flap-meter" with a sensor? Like a converter board to pass on the right signals to the ECU?

daaristieweer,wiedurft · Fri May 01, 2009 11:26 pm

just replace the lot with a alfa 164 item with the same bosch nr., found alot on the scrapheap.

Post by **Toddman** » Sat May 02, 2009 10:29 am

daaristieweer,wiedurft wrote:just replace the lot with a alfa 164 item with the same bosch nr., found alot on the scrapheap.

Sounds interesting - what does this Alfa acually use ? does it have a flap AFM like ours or a completely different system like a MAP sensor ?

Most people go down the stand alone ecy route to get rid of the AFM which is a nice way to go but it is worth looking at fitting a 3.1 system from something like a ZX Volcane 1.9, this uses a coilpack and a MAP sensor so you loose the restriction of the AFM but will need mapping of course.

BUT is the AFM such a big restriction to power ?

Cheers
Luke

martyn · Post by **martyn** » Sat May 02, 2009 2:33 pm

I seem to remember Thatorangething (Frenchracingblue ?? ) saying around 200bhp is tops with the standard AFM

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Sun May 03, 2009 1:55 pm

something in my head is saying that the intake size on the afm is good for 190brake before it becomes restrictive??

MZWiZard · Post by **MZWiZard** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:54 am

The reason I asked is because I'm on the third of those now. Each one has made a difference to the engine's feeling. First one wore out out - got dead spots. On the second one, the engine felt hesitating but without flat spots.

Now on the third one it pulls right, but got lumpy at idle... And its like it wanna die when engaging the clutch, just before a red light crossing. I can live with that for now - but seriously, I'm tired of "scrapping around" to find another flapmeter, which will make it work in even another way. And who knows how long this one is gonna last?

I really would like to go the standalone way, I guess - with four ignition coils to lose that distributor cap that doesnt like to get wet etc.... But its so expensive and complicated.

Post by **Toddman** » Tue May 05, 2009 10:16 am

That is right you should be able to get around 200bhp with the AFM which is why it isn't that much of a restriction on a road car.

Throttle bodies are nice but I prefer the old school side draft carbs, twin 45's sound lovely.

The problem with the second hand AFms is that you never know who has been tinkering, the flap springs get badly adjusted and can wear as do the tracks as you have mentioned.

Depending on the rebuild engine spec like cams and headwork then you can choose what to go for be it a distributor adaptor and webers or a new ecu and bodies of some sort.
If you are keeping the top end pretty mild then I would refurb the std system and get it properly mapped, of course if you have plenty of money to throw at the car then do whatever takes your fancy

I tend to weigh the costs very carefully LOL!

Cheers
Luke

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Wed May 06, 2009 8:30 pm

I saw a BX16V fitted with solid state ignition- I think it belonged to Dan Bs cousin? He said if was off an xm IIRC, and I would like to mod mine in this way to be rid of the rotor arm etc.

I wish I could loose the HT leads completely, and use pencil coils like my 406 has. That would stop the HT arcing to ground that seems to plague these cars.

Didn't the later 8V GTIs have no-rotor ignition? perhaps that can be adapted.

Mike

NZ16v · Post by **NZ16v** » Thu May 07, 2009 3:26 am

the grunter i will be attempting to build later on in the year will have chevy LS1 coilpacks mounted to a custom strut brace. Peter T reckons these are the way to go with a custom ECU,which i am goin to go down the Haltech path, as he can supply plug n play adapters for the loom-which we will refresh anyway.NO more dizzy problems,no more AFM,no more electrical mysteries-a laptop will tell all!

Post by **Toddman** » Thu May 07, 2009 1:03 pm

NZ that is of course the way to go, it gives you the greatest control ovcer everything.

Mike you are right the later 8v GTi did use a 3.1 system I beleive, same as the Volcane unit I mentioned earlier.
This sytem has been used very effectively on 8v 205s but I am not sure if anyone has used it on a 16v yet but it should be a good cheap mod to use on a not too heavily tuned valver.

Cheers
Luke

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Thu May 07, 2009 1:46 pm

i know it was used on a racing spec Mi in a 309! one of my mates down here kept pestering me for gti bits! (after a while i think he was doing it for a reaction lol!)

Post by **Toddman** » Thu May 07, 2009 2:55 pm

Timmo wrote:i know it was used on a racing spec Mi in a 309! one of my mates down here kept pestering me for gti bits! (after a while i think he was doing it for a reaction lol!)

Do you mean the 8v GTi system was used on an m or do you mean a stand alone ecu etc ?

I remember us talking about a 309 that the guy boiled and had a few niggles with and I am sure that wasn't running the 8v system.

Cheers
Luke

surjit25 · Post by **surjit25** » Thu May 07, 2009 5:04 pm

Does anyone have the Bosch part no. for the AFM
The one on my valver is the same as the ZX 1.9 auto with CAT. ending 202.
Mine is an 1989 without CAT.

prm · Post by **prm** » Thu May 07, 2009 6:20 pm

I’m running a 89 without a cat.

AFM, Bosch No. 0.280.202.202
With a 0.261.200.119 ECU

Regards

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Fri May 08, 2009 11:44 am

thats the one luke, i know he was running 8v coil packs on it with the tb's and all the other gubbins it had!

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