Fault codes and idling problem

All aspects of tuning,modification and repairs to the BX 16valve.
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Arska
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Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:04 pm
Location: Finland

Fault codes and idling problem

Post by Arska »

I read fault codes from ecu. It gave 65, CID circuit, which is not present in my mk1 valver. Any idea/knowledge what it might be?

The idling problem is high revs when warm. It runs about 1200 rpm. In warming period it seems to run more close to the correct value. I changed the temperature sensor, but didn't have any effect. Can it be intake air temperature sensor. Diagnostic test tested idle actuator and at least it was moving during the test. Any ideas?
Arska
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Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:04 pm
Location: Finland

Post by Arska »

It seems that 1265 is also referred to faulty check engine lamp, which makes sense. I was using LED and the current is much lower than ordinary 1.2W bulb. :D Idling problem is still unsolved.
Arska
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Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:04 pm
Location: Finland

Post by Arska »

Too tight accelerator cable was causing the idling problem. When cover moved even a bit, it prevented TPS to close. Cable routing is so tight, that engine movement cause drag to cable cover. I loosen the cable and hopefully problem is now solved.
soupapes
4000 rpm
Posts: 279
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:37 pm
Location: Portugal

Re: Fault codes and idling problem

Post by soupapes »

Hi, do you have the list of fault codes?

Is it possible to read the codes from ECU without having a diagnostic machine?
91' Citroën BX GTi 16v
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MoRtYMer
3000 rpm
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 1:31 pm
Location: Portugal

Re: Fault codes and idling problem

Post by MoRtYMer »

soupapes wrote: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:07 pm Hi, do you have the list of fault codes?

Is it possible to read the codes from ECU without having a diagnostic machine?
Yeah, I found out that at least on mine (results could vary) I can actually read the errors without having to go to the diagnostics plug next to the wheel under the bonnet. Just put the key in the position before the engine start, and turn it slighly towards the start position but stop just after the cluster lights go off, and before it engages the starter motor, and then go back to the previous position. Basically that works out as the wire you would have to use in the diagnostics plug, but you don't need a wire and can read the error from the flashes of the engine light! :D
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