How to polish wheel edges?

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MoRtYMer
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How to polish wheel edges?

Post by MoRtYMer »

Hi,
the paint on the edges of my wheels is terrible, but the inner part is ok, so i was thinking of polish the edge of the wheel at home, but whats the best method? Someone told me to try with 2000 or more wet sandpaper. Is there a better way of doing it?

And what should i use to protect the polished rim?
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Timmo
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Post by Timmo »

yeah your on the right track with 2000 grit wet and dry paper! may be even some 2500 if you can get it!(1500 will be fine but the higher the grit the less elbow greese required!) then use a decent metal polish like autosol and a smidge of elbow greese and youshould have a nice sparkly rim edge!
you can get a polishing bonnet for a dremel which can make things a lot easier too!
once its rubbed back and polished you can either keep it as plain alloy but sealed with some alloy sealer or laquer over it but laquering may dull it down and can show up all the imperfections more!
Timmo 8)

After all i am the Cornish one!

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Toddman
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grit

Post by Toddman »

Cutting through the old lacquer with 1500 grit will take forever!
I still work on the assumption that the more coarse the paper the less elbow grease required and I still work on the principle that 1200 grit if much finer than 600 ?

Mortymer your rims will be lacquered so first remove this with some decent 800 grit wet and dry then work up to a 1500 or 2000 then finish with Auto sol or similar fine cutting paste.

Thoroughly clean off then relacquer

Cheers
Luke
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tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Will have a a go at mine I think as they spoil it.
martyn
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Post by martyn »

Health and Safety issues asides :wink: you could speed things up a lot if you use the car as a lathe :shock:
Jack up and securely support (axel stands) the front.
Set to normal ride height, start the engine & select 1st, usually only one wheel will rotate (the diff selecting the path of least resistance) use this wheel as your lathe, if the diff sees too much resistance it will transfer drive to the other wheel hopefully still leaving you with all your bits intact :?

If you do try this FIRST MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SHARP FINGER SLICING BITS ON THE RIM AND WEAR STOUT GLOVES
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Mike E (uk)
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Post by Mike E (uk) »

:shock: I don't think I will be trying that.

I have plenty of spare wheels, but no spare fingers.

I have been doing my alloys with the 'Dremel like' mini grinder, with a wire brush on it.

Takes about an hour per wheel, then mask it off and spray new lacquer
over the edge.

Wonder Wheels (£6 from Wilkinsons) is excellent stuff, and will clean up the rest of the wheel nicely.

Finally, polish with normal car polish.

Final result is very satisfactory.

Owen thaught I had bought a set of new wheels.

Mike
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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

martyn wrote:Health and Safety issues asides :wink: you could speed things up a lot if you use the car as a lathe :shock:
Jack up and securely support (axel stands) the front.
Set to normal ride height, start the engine & select 1st, usually only one wheel will rotate (the diff selecting the path of least resistance) use this wheel as your lathe, if the diff sees too much resistance it will transfer drive to the other wheel hopefully still leaving you with all your bits intact :?

If you do try this FIRST MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SHARP FINGER SLICING BITS ON THE RIM AND WEAR STOUT GLOVES
That sounds awesome fun, I'll try that :lol:

They can't get any worse!
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jayw
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Post by jayw »

martyn wrote:Health and Safety issues asides :wink: you could speed things up a lot if you use the car as a lathe :shock:
Jack up and securely support (axel stands) the front.
Set to normal ride height, start the engine & select 1st, usually only one wheel will rotate (the diff selecting the path of least resistance) use this wheel as your lathe, if the diff sees too much resistance it will transfer drive to the other wheel hopefully still leaving you with all your bits intact :?

If you do try this FIRST MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO SHARP FINGER SLICING BITS ON THE RIM AND WEAR STOUT GLOVES
Actually, this method is a lot better than it sounds, friends and i have used it for years to polish several full sets of wheels as well as odd rims here and there, i did my BX set in the spring (although they weren't the standard speedlines), a few points to note though:

1. For ease of use i'd suggest using the o/s wheel as you've got easier access to the on/off switch.

2. Support it securely on axle stands with a spare rim under the n/s wheel to force drive to the o/s.

3. It is nessecary to lock the steering in place, the easiest way is to remove the steering column shroud and simply hot-wire the car leaving the steering lock on. Only takes 5 minutes to sort. (or do it from the cable connection behind centre console)

4. 2nd gear turned out to be best, being that it is fast enough at idle speed to make an efficient lathe (and there's little or NO chance of forcing drive to the other wheel). Fit the rim being worked on securely to the hub then start her up and engage gear with a gentle clutch.

5. My wheels were quite bad so for grinding i started with a Metal Grinding Disc from my angle grinder, then a sharpening stone followed by emery cloth. Just gently bring the abrasive into contact with the rim at the bottom at a shallow angle (facing the rear of the car). Use both hands to keep the abrasive steady (you don't want it bouncing on & off the metal). Keep a bowl of water below the rim and use plenty of it for best results.

Bad wheels are done properly in less than an hour each making the whole adventure just a days work from start to finish!

MOST IMPORTANT! Although we've NEVER had an accident doing this, be sensible! Make sure the car is secure and i know everyone looks like a geek in goggles but they are a must as are gloves. The more time you spend on being gentle with the process the better the results are.

Notes: Doesn't work if your discs are warped!

(ps. don't sue me if you snap an arm off or anything, you use at your own risk!)

Jay
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thanuttiscotsman
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Post by thanuttiscotsman »

why not get a mate to help!! get the whole front end off the ground and do both sides at the same time! 8)
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection

1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
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jayw
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Post by jayw »

Because your mate starts fighting for drive and pushes harder on the rim which in turn gives you the drive back... then it all turns into a silly farce until one of you goes to make coffee while the other one does the work....

Been there, done that! lol :roll:
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thanuttiscotsman
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Post by thanuttiscotsman »

lol :lol: 8)
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection

1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
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Dave
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Post by Dave »

Used the jacking up method a few times. It is easy, saves a lot of time, no sore fingers or worn nails. (as long as you are careful of course, otherwise you could have worse!)
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