Does anyone have any cures for creaking front suspension legs? They only creak at the extremes of travel, but I know from experience they'll go worse.....
I've tried working the suspension up and down and it's definately the legs.
Also, apart from paint/finish, are the Phase 1/2 wheels the same?
Finally, is the pre 1992 BX 1.6 water pump the same as the 16V type?
I've got a new BX 1600 one, from a 1991 BX.
Also does anyone have a clear wiring diagram of the 16V Motronic Bosch injection system (earliest type).
Thanks a lot.....
Front suspension/Alloys/Water pump/Fuel injection
Only permanant cure for creaky legs is replacement or rebuild if you can get the parts and have the tools to do it.
I'm pretty sure it is only paint difference between the wheels (although watch out for 8V GTI alloys being sold as early 16V - they are from memory 1/2" narrower)
I doubt the water pump is the same, but have a look on GSF web site and compare part numbers.
Can't help on the wiring diagram front either, I'm afraid - might be worth having a look through Luke's home page as there may be something around the place
Adrian
I'm pretty sure it is only paint difference between the wheels (although watch out for 8V GTI alloys being sold as early 16V - they are from memory 1/2" narrower)
I doubt the water pump is the same, but have a look on GSF web site and compare part numbers.
Can't help on the wiring diagram front either, I'm afraid - might be worth having a look through Luke's home page as there may be something around the place
Adrian
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Mike E (uk)
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Anonymous
Re: Front suspension/Alloys/Water pump/Fuel injection
I hope i explain this correcttobytronic wrote:Does anyone have any cures for creaking front suspension legs? They only creak at the extremes of travel, but I know from experience they'll go worse.....
I've tried working the suspension up and down and it's definately the legs.
At the dutch bx-forum is told that spraying a teflon based lubricant in the top of the suspension legs (there is a small hole next to the sphere) will cure the creaking in the front legs for a long time.
If it helps it will be a cheap fix and i think you can buy this at your local parts-store....
If they bent then the only option is to rebuilt or replace them with good ones.
Marc
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Anonymous
Re: Front suspension/Alloys/Water pump/Fuel injection
Thanks, I thought I had read somewhere about this a few years ago. Although I have been working on BX's since the were first made, funnily enough, I 've only ever fitted one set of new legs. The others customers just soldiered on with sticky legs, or scrapped the car.marx-7 wrote:I hope i explain this correcttobytronic wrote:Does anyone have any cures for creaking front suspension legs? They only creak at the extremes of travel, but I know from experience they'll go worse.....
I've tried working the suspension up and down and it's definately the legs.
At the dutch bx-forum is told that spraying a teflon based lubricant in the top of the suspension legs (there is a small hole next to the sphere) will cure the creaking in the front legs for a long time.
If it helps it will be a cheap fix and i think you can buy this at your local parts-store....
If they bent then the only option is to rebuilt or replace them with good ones.
Marc
I will try this and report back!
The old method of dripping LHM down the hole at the top of the leg ended up in tears when someone took a car in for a MOT and got failed because the goose doing the MOT wouldn't believe it was anything but leaky struts; as a result a few of us put our heads together and came up with another system.
After a few trial and errors, we found a system that works, but needs to be used on a fairly regular basis to be sucessful.
Firstly jack the car up to maximum height.
Step one: Pull down the gaitors. They clip into the upper part of the strut top. (Hole one side and a plug looking plastic section the other)
Step 2: Wash the silver portion by spraying with WD40 and wiping clean.
Step 3: Smear the silver section with silicone grease (preferred option) or teflon or at a pinch a good quality grease..
Step 4: Go through a typical Citaerobics move by raising and lowering a few times until the groaning and juddering stops. If need be, repeat steps 2 & 3.
Step 5: Get a clean jar like a coffee or jam jar capable of holding about 100 mls min and partially fill with fresh LHM. Remove the two return lines from the connections at the subframe, wipe the lines clean and stick in the jar of LHM. Get someone to again raise and lower the suspension and watch the level in the jar. You'll find it rises and falls and changes colour as the LHM comes and goes.
This is apparently not lubricating the innards but more flushing a lot of scummy film that develops insides.
Some have claimed to have used engine oil instead of LHM but I usually play it safe and stick with the LHM.
Refit gaitors, then road wheels and again run the suspension up and down a few times.
This takes most of the creaks, groans and stiffness out of them but must be done as part of routine services. I do mine on average every twelve months. We don't get the rain and snow you guys get, so maybe yours may need doing a bit more often.
It's a system we've found works and lasts longer each time it's done.
It also helps improve ride and handling as a bonus.
Alan S
After a few trial and errors, we found a system that works, but needs to be used on a fairly regular basis to be sucessful.
Firstly jack the car up to maximum height.
Step one: Pull down the gaitors. They clip into the upper part of the strut top. (Hole one side and a plug looking plastic section the other)
Step 2: Wash the silver portion by spraying with WD40 and wiping clean.
Step 3: Smear the silver section with silicone grease (preferred option) or teflon or at a pinch a good quality grease..
Step 4: Go through a typical Citaerobics move by raising and lowering a few times until the groaning and juddering stops. If need be, repeat steps 2 & 3.
Step 5: Get a clean jar like a coffee or jam jar capable of holding about 100 mls min and partially fill with fresh LHM. Remove the two return lines from the connections at the subframe, wipe the lines clean and stick in the jar of LHM. Get someone to again raise and lower the suspension and watch the level in the jar. You'll find it rises and falls and changes colour as the LHM comes and goes.
This is apparently not lubricating the innards but more flushing a lot of scummy film that develops insides.
Some have claimed to have used engine oil instead of LHM but I usually play it safe and stick with the LHM.
Refit gaitors, then road wheels and again run the suspension up and down a few times.
This takes most of the creaks, groans and stiffness out of them but must be done as part of routine services. I do mine on average every twelve months. We don't get the rain and snow you guys get, so maybe yours may need doing a bit more often.
It's a system we've found works and lasts longer each time it's done.
It also helps improve ride and handling as a bonus.
Alan S
legs
As above really.
Every year I use WD40 on the rams give them a good clean and grease up.
I still chuck a cap full of LHM down the centre of the legs on my car but the MOT guy is sensible
Some citroen aerobics helps as well.
There was a long thread about the 16v water pump on the old forum and the feeling was that the 16v should have an individual pump but you can bodge the 1.9 item IIRC.
Only two type of alloy are the 5.5J and 6J.
Cheers
Luke
Every year I use WD40 on the rams give them a good clean and grease up.
I still chuck a cap full of LHM down the centre of the legs on my car but the MOT guy is sensible
Some citroen aerobics helps as well.
There was a long thread about the 16v water pump on the old forum and the feeling was that the 16v should have an individual pump but you can bodge the 1.9 item IIRC.
Only two type of alloy are the 5.5J and 6J.
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke 
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch