Now I know this isn't a 16v topic but there you go.
I have an 8v auto, and want to increase its pep. Its done 162k and the valves need doing as I get a bit of blue smoke on start up (although it doesn't lose or use oil). So I am thinking I need to have the head off to do the valve guides etc, so is it possible to get a polished and or ported head to replace it with? Would this be worth doing, or should I leave well alone?
Just want to improve its mid range output really so if there's a touring conversion then that would be it!
If I can get one, is there a recommended place I should enquire as to cost of supply or supply and fit plus tune?
Cheers all.
AG
8v tuning
Is this Phil's old car?
Personally I wouldn't attempt to tune it. It'll still be a fairly long way off the pace of a 16v, and if you wanted to go faster you'd be better off buying a valver in the first place.
Plus trying to put more juice through the auto box could result expensively.
I'd get the veal seals done though, and just keep the engine tip top. You could look into skimming and porting the head while its off and maybe fitting a slightly longer duration cam, but as I say...I think it'd be a bit financially silly. They're not sluggish cars as standard are they (don't know, haven't driven one!
)
Personally I wouldn't attempt to tune it. It'll still be a fairly long way off the pace of a 16v, and if you wanted to go faster you'd be better off buying a valver in the first place.
Plus trying to put more juice through the auto box could result expensively.
I'd get the veal seals done though, and just keep the engine tip top. You could look into skimming and porting the head while its off and maybe fitting a slightly longer duration cam, but as I say...I think it'd be a bit financially silly. They're not sluggish cars as standard are they (don't know, haven't driven one!
)yep it is, drives fine although feels like its missing every now and again at higher speeds.
I think in hindsight I agree with you, so I'll leave well alone.
However it wasn't outright speed or attempting to keep with a 16v that was my aim, just to increase it a little.
Maybe I should have gone for the 16v, I tried to bid on yours (in fact it was via your black one I found this place!) but lost out in the dying moments.
I think in hindsight I agree with you, so I'll leave well alone.
However it wasn't outright speed or attempting to keep with a 16v that was my aim, just to increase it a little.
Maybe I should have gone for the 16v, I tried to bid on yours (in fact it was via your black one I found this place!) but lost out in the dying moments.
I agree on the leave alone and get up to good std spec advice, problem with tuning autos is that most tuning gets more top end power rather than the low to mid that the auto box likes! ( and generally tries to keep itself in)
On head work knocking off casting flash and getting things lined up neatly is good value, just don't go mirror polishing the ports or hacking them out larger just cos some tuning geezer does that to all his stock car racers!
getting ignition advanced as far as it will go without pinking will help low end response on these as will making sure the cold air pipework and ducting is intact, if heads off anyway take off any sharp edges in combustion cahmber without reshaping it and a gentle like to raise compression won't hurt just make sure you keep it clean of deposits to stop it pinking later.....
Ollie
On head work knocking off casting flash and getting things lined up neatly is good value, just don't go mirror polishing the ports or hacking them out larger just cos some tuning geezer does that to all his stock car racers!
getting ignition advanced as far as it will go without pinking will help low end response on these as will making sure the cold air pipework and ducting is intact, if heads off anyway take off any sharp edges in combustion cahmber without reshaping it and a gentle like to raise compression won't hurt just make sure you keep it clean of deposits to stop it pinking later.....
Ollie
If this has the low compression engine in it (105 BHP) the easiest way might be to go shopping for a 122 BHP version as found in the TZi.
I've got an auto estate with the 122 engine in it and whilst it's no drag racer off the line, it goes like the clappers once it's rolling along.
If it's blowing smoke and if it's from the rings, playing with the top end will probably put the oil consumption/smoke meter through the roof.
Alan S
I've got an auto estate with the 122 engine in it and whilst it's no drag racer off the line, it goes like the clappers once it's rolling along.
If it's blowing smoke and if it's from the rings, playing with the top end will probably put the oil consumption/smoke meter through the roof.
Alan S
Just wait for another 16V to come up for sale. Remember the 16V is an appreciating classic. The other BX's aren't, it doesn't make any sense to throw money at them, unless you love the one you've got. I borrowed a BX GTI between my 1st and second 16V there's nothing wrong with them, but they're no way near as much fun to drive. 
1990 BX16V Phase 2.
I made the 1st post.
I made the 1st post.
it doesn't burn oil as such, only on start up and only if been left unstarted for a few days.
The 16v I overlooked because the car needs to sit outside and not attract any attention (the 8v doesn't at all) and I thought that with the bodykit on it may attract unwanted attention!
Still if I manage to get the storage local to me then I may well try and get the silver one with cam belt failure, if so then 16v ownership may well beckon.
The 16v I overlooked because the car needs to sit outside and not attract any attention (the 8v doesn't at all) and I thought that with the bodykit on it may attract unwanted attention!
Still if I manage to get the storage local to me then I may well try and get the silver one with cam belt failure, if so then 16v ownership may well beckon.
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Jezziebx16v
- Moderator
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Yeah but thats only different bumpers and a hoop spoiler on a Ph1, still has the side skirts.jonsgot wrote: If the body kit is a real concern to you go for a phase 1.
My 16v's have never created any unwanted interest, evan with stereo's and big exhuasts, people not in the know just look at them and say "Oh it's a Bx"
.Jez
Past 16v's: 89 Ph1 Black, 90 Ph2 Grey, 89 Ph2 Black, 91 Ph2 Grey, 91 Ph2 Black.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
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Mike E (uk)
- 4000 rpm
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- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 7:16 pm
- Location: South Bucks, England
I would not try tuning an auto bx, the manual GTi is good to drive and available for a few peanuts.
A 16V is available for a few peanuts more if you want some high rev fun.
Well worth checking you are running maximum ignition advance though.
Lots of these cars wee 'converted' to run on unleaded, which in practice meant the ignition was retarded more than was really necessary.
A 16V is available for a few peanuts more if you want some high rev fun.
Well worth checking you are running maximum ignition advance though.
Lots of these cars wee 'converted' to run on unleaded, which in practice meant the ignition was retarded more than was really necessary.
GTi
Sadly the biggest downsid eon this car is the gearbox so not a good choice to tune.
The manual box would be a different story though - you could go for a later 2.0 head which breathes much better then clean that up a little get a better cam and for the finishing touches fit a 16v bottom end.
But as mentioned best option is the valver
As Alan suggests check out the power output for your engine and definitely open it up for stem seals and a clean up most 8valves need stem seals at around 80-90k if not sooner when age creeps up on them.
Cheers
Luke
The manual box would be a different story though - you could go for a later 2.0 head which breathes much better then clean that up a little get a better cam and for the finishing touches fit a 16v bottom end.
But as mentioned best option is the valver
As Alan suggests check out the power output for your engine and definitely open it up for stem seals and a clean up most 8valves need stem seals at around 80-90k if not sooner when age creeps up on them.
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke 
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
well my idea of it being un noticeable by others back fired on Sunday night when some low life smashed the drivers window, and stole the road angel that was hiding in the passenger footwell (my fault for not taking it indoors).
But I will have the ignition checked when I have it serviced shortly, and that will be that. I think I have some storage sorted so I may well own a 16v before the summer actually arrives?
But I will have the ignition checked when I have it serviced shortly, and that will be that. I think I have some storage sorted so I may well own a 16v before the summer actually arrives?