Hi All, decided today to change the flow valve,radiator out, twin fans out.Took around 4 hours, job done. Radiator refilled and hydraulics pressurized,no leaks, fantastic. Left car running while I cleaned up, after ten minutes thought thats odd fans should have kicked in by now, checked guage and it was boiling so quickly turned engine off and put heater on full. Checked that I had connected everything up, yep no problems there. I know the fans were working before I started, heard them after a trip out this morning. Disconnected the three wires from the rad switch, and put a wire across them to see if the fans would come on, they didnt, all I was getting was a clicking from the relays, so now I am stumped, has anybody got any ideas.
Cheers Bob.
Fans stopped working.
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bob hughes
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bob hughes
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id take a guess at the resistor being caput but im sure that would only effect low speed. i'm guessing that you've checked the fuse. you say you get relays clicking on and off, could be a fault in the wiring to them.
do you have aircon? i've never seen a bx with fan relays without aircon, wonder if its a later extra or aftermarket thing?
do you have aircon? i've never seen a bx with fan relays without aircon, wonder if its a later extra or aftermarket thing?
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bob hughes
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bob hughes
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Timmo
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As a tempory measure bob, you could wire in a switch to give you a manual override as such ontot he fans (how mine work!!) until you have got to the bottom of it! i know its not that helpful a post, sorry!
but am intreaged as moine have never worked without the switch!
but am intreaged as moine have never worked without the switch!
Timmo 
After all i am the Cornish one!
Its Because its French!
Bx16v club - Sharing the love for the unloved!
After all i am the Cornish one!
Its Because its French!
Bx16v club - Sharing the love for the unloved!
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Jezziebx16v
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No fans have ever worked on any of the 16v's i have ever owned, none of them have had over heating problems either, evan my ph1 i towed a caravan with 
Jez
Jez
Past 16v's: 89 Ph1 Black, 90 Ph2 Grey, 89 Ph2 Black, 91 Ph2 Grey, 91 Ph2 Black.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
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bob hughes
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Hi all.
Been outside allday today trying to get my head round the problem, I managed to get the second fan working by changing things round slightly. I removed one of the motor wires from one of the relays and earthed it, Result is second fan now comes on at 90, and keeps the temperature from rising any further. At least that will keep me mobile till I can get an auto electrician to sort it out properly.
Thanks for all your replys, Bob.
Been outside allday today trying to get my head round the problem, I managed to get the second fan working by changing things round slightly. I removed one of the motor wires from one of the relays and earthed it, Result is second fan now comes on at 90, and keeps the temperature from rising any further. At least that will keep me mobile till I can get an auto electrician to sort it out properly.
Thanks for all your replys, Bob.
Hi Bob
If both the fans were operating before rad out, it sounds possible, as if the contacts on the rad temp switch have become interchanged. Depending what year your car is, a large proportion were fitted with a single fan and your second may have been fitted aftermarket. The single fan model speeds were controlled via the resistor, with the 3 pole temp switch acting as a path to neg/chassis. Depending how your fans are wired, these may be controlled either by a resistor- no relays, apart from the main supply R1, or by 2 relays, high and low speed-no resistor.
A few checks that may help, disconnect both fans and apply a direct 12 volt supply to both, fans, they should run at high speed, approx 2400rpm. Check to see if there is a positive supply to both fans, ignition on.
Depending if your rad temp switch has the original 3 pole plastic plug or 3 individual spades, the 3 contacts on the temp switch, when viewed from above, two opposed and one at 90deg. With the single terminal (common) at 6 o-clock,- horizontal, vertical left tag is high speed, vertical right tag is slow speed
All contacts on the temp switch with a cold engine should be open, warm the engine to approx 88-94C, slow and common are closed, warm further, approx 95-103, slow, high and common are closed, The switch connects the fans in series, for slow speed then a relay transfers both fans to parallel, but depends on your set-up.
If you’ve got a resistor installed ??. they get bl—dy hot stationery.
Any problems have got a drawing of mods for 16v wiring that may help.
If both the fans were operating before rad out, it sounds possible, as if the contacts on the rad temp switch have become interchanged. Depending what year your car is, a large proportion were fitted with a single fan and your second may have been fitted aftermarket. The single fan model speeds were controlled via the resistor, with the 3 pole temp switch acting as a path to neg/chassis. Depending how your fans are wired, these may be controlled either by a resistor- no relays, apart from the main supply R1, or by 2 relays, high and low speed-no resistor.
A few checks that may help, disconnect both fans and apply a direct 12 volt supply to both, fans, they should run at high speed, approx 2400rpm. Check to see if there is a positive supply to both fans, ignition on.
Depending if your rad temp switch has the original 3 pole plastic plug or 3 individual spades, the 3 contacts on the temp switch, when viewed from above, two opposed and one at 90deg. With the single terminal (common) at 6 o-clock,- horizontal, vertical left tag is high speed, vertical right tag is slow speed
All contacts on the temp switch with a cold engine should be open, warm the engine to approx 88-94C, slow and common are closed, warm further, approx 95-103, slow, high and common are closed, The switch connects the fans in series, for slow speed then a relay transfers both fans to parallel, but depends on your set-up.
If you’ve got a resistor installed ??. they get bl—dy hot stationery.
Any problems have got a drawing of mods for 16v wiring that may help.
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bob hughes
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Hi prm.
Thanks for the information, I am now getting to grips with the wiring, I will try your suggestions over the next few days. I saw my machanic this afternoon, time served on the BX, he is going to fit a new crankshaft oil seal, new belt and tensioners, and says he will look at the electrics to the fans. If I can get them working myself, that will save me some money,thanks for your help. I am taking the old girl to the CCC in Huntingdon,6 hour drive from here, so need to get it sorted.
Many Thaks Bob.
Thanks for the information, I am now getting to grips with the wiring, I will try your suggestions over the next few days. I saw my machanic this afternoon, time served on the BX, he is going to fit a new crankshaft oil seal, new belt and tensioners, and says he will look at the electrics to the fans. If I can get them working myself, that will save me some money,thanks for your help. I am taking the old girl to the CCC in Huntingdon,6 hour drive from here, so need to get it sorted.
Many Thaks Bob.
One check point I forgot to mention.
With the three wires/connections on the temp switch. If you bridge each one down direct to battery neg, (bypasses all cable connections) in turn. 1 connector- fans on slow- to vertical right. 2 - fans on high to vertical left and 3 zero, horizontal tag, – direct path neg.. Don’t worry about possible miss connection as all three cables should be neg/chassis return connections, but check with meter first just encase you have an alternative set-up.
Regards
With the three wires/connections on the temp switch. If you bridge each one down direct to battery neg, (bypasses all cable connections) in turn. 1 connector- fans on slow- to vertical right. 2 - fans on high to vertical left and 3 zero, horizontal tag, – direct path neg.. Don’t worry about possible miss connection as all three cables should be neg/chassis return connections, but check with meter first just encase you have an alternative set-up.
Regards
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bob hughes
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Hi PRM. I think I must have a different setup. Of the three wires that go to the rad switch, two have been taped back out of the way. The remaining wire becomes live when ignition is turned on. Two more wires have been added,and from the switch go to two relays,one wire to each. It then gets a bit complicated, the more I look at it the more I cant understand how it ever worked, I think I am going to leave it to the experts.
Thanks again for your help. Bob.
Thanks again for your help. Bob.