Engine fails

soupapes · Post by **soupapes** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:05 pm

Hi!

I have a problem with the engine of my BX.

When i accelerate the engine fails and shakes a lot, but only when in acceleration and when is hot. Power fails.

It happens with the engine working on gasoline or LPG, so i suppose the problem is not with the injection, because the LPG kit have specific injectors.

I also replaced the AFM and the problem maintains.

What can it be?

RobC · Post by **RobC** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:30 pm

sounds to me very much like a failed ignition module/amplifier.

located on a heatsink on the bulkhead. try swopping it with a known good one to see if it fixes the problem.

trouble is, i've realised that some pattern replacement parts (e.g. 'intermotor') don't work - so if possible get a genuine bosch replacement.

might be something else of course.. but those symptoms are exactly what i had when mine failed.

thanuttiscotsman · Post by **thanuttiscotsman** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:55 pm

i would be with rob on this one, but if no luck try looking at the dizzy, rotor and throttle position sensor maybe.

rossco

soupapes · Post by **soupapes** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:45 pm

Thanks for the replys.

The ignition module was replaced 3 years ago for a brand new one.

Is it possible to be broken?

docchevron1472 · Post by **docchevron1472** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:59 am

Yes.
They can last 100 years or 10 minutes.

surjit25 · Post by **surjit25** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:34 am

You can try changing these parts mentioned but we tend to
overlook one important point, that the car is old and some parts are worn.
This problem could be related to a wireharness problem.
When hot just shake any point of the harness .
Do these at various different areas and see if it stalls.
There could be a wire break somewhere and when you accelerate
,the engine shifts backwards causing the contact to break resulting
in a stalling effect.This can happen if you have a broken
eng. mount and the eng. movement is more.
But do check the protective plastic insulation on the wire harness,
if they are brittle/worn/broken then a wire could also be rubbing on
the engine block and causing this problem.
You may have to remove entire eng wire harness for a thorough
inspection and re-insulate the entire harness.
But also check the module and throttle pot. first as they will
be the easiest to check.

soupapes · Post by **soupapes** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:22 pm

That's a good point.

I just found out under the back of the battery some wires connection in very bad condition, completely full of corrosion because of the liquid that comes out from the battery.

Maybe that's the problem. I'm going to fix that by replacing that plug and see how the car will work.

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:39 pm

its worth cleaning out all the multi plugs around the engine and applying a little vasoline (petroleum jelly) to the contacts and then cable tie the connecters back together! can make a lot of difference to the runnign of the car! also means its one less thing!! could also be worth checking your earth cables around the battery area, battery to chassis, battery to Gearbox etc. can make quite a difference! i put a silly thick earth cable on mine! works a treat!

surjit25 · Post by **surjit25** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 4:03 am

You could also improve the earthing, on BX,XM, and ZX
the earthing points are weak, get an earthing wire set
and connect one to alt, starter, body earths, inj, and
one to earth point behind dash.
You will find yr starting better and lights brighter in fact
power also improves a wee bit....

Post by **Toddman** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 2:06 pm

Certainly sounds spark related to me.
If you have had no luck fixing the problem check the distributor cap and rotor arm, they are a weak point and if a non O>E> cap or arm has been used chances are their life will be dramatically shorter than the genuine parts.
Coils can also play up as with time they gat caked up with dirt and ebris so a good clean up may help.

Cheers
Luke

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:45 pm

lots of good advice so far, some amps last only a year with all the care in the world with heat grease and clean connectors - very hard to test them so change if in doubt - mines on its 4th in my ownership... coils genearlly last similar but can do resistance test to see if OK - looking for a couple of Ohms on primary and 10's of K on Secondary - NOT Mega Ohms!! a duff coil will blow amp so if in doubt do both together and Don't use intermotor, - Beru and Bosch are the ones to find.

and for the record LPG is very haerd on ignition sytems so keep on top of leads and caps etc and use good copper cored plugs as cheaper ones cant cope with the hotter temps of gas flame.

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:48 pm

oh yes and the LPG kit, is it driven by any off the Petrol sensors? or even off the back of the normal injectors - most are, so if so the LPG /petrol logic won't work as the processing and settings will still share common controls - Ollie

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:49 pm

a bit off topic, but how well does the BX run on LPG compared with petrol.

thanks,

Mike

docchevron1472 · Post by **docchevron1472** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 1:12 am

It should go like hell, given that LPG is about 120 octane....

soupapes · Post by **soupapes** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:39 pm

I believe the problem is with the plugs in very bad condition.

Just take a look at the condition this plug was:

I replaced it with a new one (the white plug) but then i found out there is another plug in bad condition (the 3 wire plug next to the one i replaced):

When i shake the 3 wire plug with my hand, the engine works unstable, so i believe the problem is there.

This weekend i'm going to replace that plug too, and then ill see how the car handles.

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Engine fails

Engine fails

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