hey folks, how we all doin? im well but one of my collection isn't in best working order. basically my ph1 has a power steering problem where basically its gone rock solid until the car has been running for a few mins and is warmed up then when driving its mostly ok but just ticking over or manuvering around the car park the steering is ok then heavy as etc. now the car has had a new power steering pinion valve installed and a new hp pump recently. so im running out of ideas of possible broken bits. am i right in guessing that after changing the pas valve and pump that the only other culprit could be the hydro pressure reg? from memory its the only other bit that could affect the steering??? i do have a spare in the garage but not gonna go firing it in incase there could be a more likely suspect.???
cheers rossco
power steering issue
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thanuttiscotsman
- 7000 rpm
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- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:16 am
- Location: Scotland
power steering issue
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
clean the LHM system with hydraflush if your not inclined to sort the FDV. A pinion does not cause this issue, the problem is a lack of system pressure, could be a global issue or a PAS circuit issue.
With engine running, have a look at how much return you getting to the regulator. If there is a lot of return from the FDV then the pump is supplying enough fluid but its not getting from FDV to rack.
If there is a major amount of returned fluid from else where then you have a major component fail that is probably causing insufficient pressure for the FDV to supply the PAS (the PAS fails first when there is low pressure at the FDV).
What are the other circuits like? TO you get instant rising in suspension and instant brakes when starting? That would deffinately point to the FDV!
Remember you also have the accumulator and PR inline before the FDV so if either of these are faulty then you could get low pressure as a result!
What colour is the LHM? Any contaminants? They could be blocking up the FDV, or reducing viscocity/pump output.
With engine running, have a look at how much return you getting to the regulator. If there is a lot of return from the FDV then the pump is supplying enough fluid but its not getting from FDV to rack.
If there is a major amount of returned fluid from else where then you have a major component fail that is probably causing insufficient pressure for the FDV to supply the PAS (the PAS fails first when there is low pressure at the FDV).
What are the other circuits like? TO you get instant rising in suspension and instant brakes when starting? That would deffinately point to the FDV!
Remember you also have the accumulator and PR inline before the FDV so if either of these are faulty then you could get low pressure as a result!
What colour is the LHM? Any contaminants? They could be blocking up the FDV, or reducing viscocity/pump output.
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ed_straker
- 3000 rpm
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- Location: germany...don't mention the war!
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thanuttiscotsman
- 7000 rpm
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- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:16 am
- Location: Scotland
hi guys,
thanks for the replies! well the car is slow to rise up but stays there when it is. brakes work almost instantly from starting. as previously mentioned the car seems fine when constant driving around the city, then it only becomes heavy occasionally. the replacement pump in there worked 100% perfectly in the other car. as for the lhm it is of normal colour etc and is mostly new as there was previously a really bad lhm leak so it got re-filled a milion times. the car brakes have always been really sharp. also one other thing it does sound like the hp pump is working like mental all the time. the suspension works very well once up but does take a couple mins to rise. can't think of any more details to give. oh vanny how do i test how much return there is from the fdv?
cheers again rossco
thanks for the replies! well the car is slow to rise up but stays there when it is. brakes work almost instantly from starting. as previously mentioned the car seems fine when constant driving around the city, then it only becomes heavy occasionally. the replacement pump in there worked 100% perfectly in the other car. as for the lhm it is of normal colour etc and is mostly new as there was previously a really bad lhm leak so it got re-filled a milion times. the car brakes have always been really sharp. also one other thing it does sound like the hp pump is working like mental all the time. the suspension works very well once up but does take a couple mins to rise. can't think of any more details to give. oh vanny how do i test how much return there is from the fdv?
cheers again rossco
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
Cant be air in the PAS as they are self bleeding (any VERY quick at bleeding as well!).
You just disconnect the hoses running into the reservoir and run them into a clean collection vessel. The trick is knowing which feed does what but i haven't a clue which return is from where without a guide, and i can't find it at the mo.
If the pump is running all the time, then your not building up enough pressure to satisfy the system. What is the tick time? ie the time between the pressure regulator switching in and out? The pump will of course work continuously at the same rate determined by the engine, the pressure regulator feeds back unneeded fluid. So, this puts suspicion on the regulator being stuck open, the accumulator being totally goosed and effectively by passing the PR, or a fault further down the system. But its sounding more like a pressure fault than a PAS fault.
You just disconnect the hoses running into the reservoir and run them into a clean collection vessel. The trick is knowing which feed does what but i haven't a clue which return is from where without a guide, and i can't find it at the mo.
If the pump is running all the time, then your not building up enough pressure to satisfy the system. What is the tick time? ie the time between the pressure regulator switching in and out? The pump will of course work continuously at the same rate determined by the engine, the pressure regulator feeds back unneeded fluid. So, this puts suspicion on the regulator being stuck open, the accumulator being totally goosed and effectively by passing the PR, or a fault further down the system. But its sounding more like a pressure fault than a PAS fault.
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thanuttiscotsman
- 7000 rpm
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hi vanny,
thanks for the info, it sounds like my suspicions are about right. i have a brand new accy sphere on a good regulator in the garage so i will swap em over and see if solves the issues.
cheers again rossco
thanks for the info, it sounds like my suspicions are about right. i have a brand new accy sphere on a good regulator in the garage so i will swap em over and see if solves the issues.
cheers again rossco
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
It is the Flow Dist Valve problem.
I had the same problem a mth back and now a week back
while driving home heard a continous clacking sound, got out and saw
the main sphere had busted.
Tried driving back but midway the t-joint near the sec. valve popped
out and let go precious green blood on the road.
The car's parked since then, comtemplating what to to,
modify a xantia pump and do away with the FDV or fit a
non-power steerng rack which I have.
The FDV is a real pain and is constantly giving hyd problems.
Any good suggestions.
I had the same problem a mth back and now a week back
while driving home heard a continous clacking sound, got out and saw
the main sphere had busted.
Tried driving back but midway the t-joint near the sec. valve popped
out and let go precious green blood on the road.
The car's parked since then, comtemplating what to to,
modify a xantia pump and do away with the FDV or fit a
non-power steerng rack which I have.
The FDV is a real pain and is constantly giving hyd problems.
Any good suggestions.
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thanuttiscotsman
- 7000 rpm
- Posts: 1137
- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:16 am
- Location: Scotland
hey folks,
just wondering if anyone can give me some info on pressure regulators. does anyone know if the 11mm bolt that goes directly horisontally into the cylinder end (left side of car) of the pressure regulator is used for adjusting the pressure or if infact it is capable of doing so? prob i have is ive just changed my pressure reg and i cant get this bolt back in because when the bolt turns the part inside the regulator turns also so it doesnt tighten. ive tried turning it really quickly etc with no luck. but since i have tried to tighten this bolt and the part inside the regulator has turned a phigh pressure pipe has blown off, so i need to know if ive adjusted something by accident or if it was just a dodgy pipe. any good knowledge welcome as i need to get this sorted.
cheers rossco
just wondering if anyone can give me some info on pressure regulators. does anyone know if the 11mm bolt that goes directly horisontally into the cylinder end (left side of car) of the pressure regulator is used for adjusting the pressure or if infact it is capable of doing so? prob i have is ive just changed my pressure reg and i cant get this bolt back in because when the bolt turns the part inside the regulator turns also so it doesnt tighten. ive tried turning it really quickly etc with no luck. but since i have tried to tighten this bolt and the part inside the regulator has turned a phigh pressure pipe has blown off, so i need to know if ive adjusted something by accident or if it was just a dodgy pipe. any good knowledge welcome as i need to get this sorted.
cheers rossco
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
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thanuttiscotsman
- 7000 rpm
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- Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:16 am
- Location: Scotland
Oh, OK got you, there is no adjustment of any kind ,it's just to
mount the bracket on.
But as I said earlier ,if you have a pipe popping out
then is some problem somewhere.
Check the front strut return hose for excessive oil flow,
if heavy flow get the strut changed, if they are OK then
I suggest to change the Flow Dist and Regulator together.
While you are at it also check the brake valve, security valve,
height correctors. .....
I had an 2.0 Series 1 XM in 1997 and that car gave perennial hyd. problems.
I had to change practically all these parts before the susp. behaved
itself.
mount the bracket on.
But as I said earlier ,if you have a pipe popping out
then is some problem somewhere.
Check the front strut return hose for excessive oil flow,
if heavy flow get the strut changed, if they are OK then
I suggest to change the Flow Dist and Regulator together.
While you are at it also check the brake valve, security valve,
height correctors. .....
I had an 2.0 Series 1 XM in 1997 and that car gave perennial hyd. problems.
I had to change practically all these parts before the susp. behaved
itself.