Well if 18 months is life for a pair, then I'd rather not try another! tho in fairness the amp prob wasn't faulty this time, the coil will have fried it! previous one was tho'....
Intermotor coil on other car was its only fault too.....
Interestingly, last one from GSF was Automotor, last week where selling valeo and this morning theyre selling Sagem...... which somehow didn't make it to my delivery, better luck tommorrow!
Ollie
Problems...
Ok it looks like it was the cap that stoped working...
Changed for a new cap and rotor, and it looks ok, but when i changed it, the car first worked ok, then it stalled. When i tried to start it again, it looked like was working on 3 cilinder (misfiring?), then got normal when idling (and was more regular than before), but between 2000 and 3000 rpm was failing again, then i'd take it for a little spin, and after 5 min it was ok...
Do the cap and rotor need time to "adjust"?
Tomorow i'll take it for a ride and see if all is ok, finally.
Changed for a new cap and rotor, and it looks ok, but when i changed it, the car first worked ok, then it stalled. When i tried to start it again, it looked like was working on 3 cilinder (misfiring?), then got normal when idling (and was more regular than before), but between 2000 and 3000 rpm was failing again, then i'd take it for a little spin, and after 5 min it was ok...
Do the cap and rotor need time to "adjust"?
Tomorow i'll take it for a ride and see if all is ok, finally.
I've often wondered why you guys seem to have an never ending string of ignition related problems.
Over here they are almost unheard of and from memory, the only one we ever had here was with a write off we restored where the ignition amplifier was dud possibly due to fire extinguishers and hoses being blown around when it caught fire.
Our cars have had these misses and rough running, the common one being when sitting at around the speed limit and it bucks and jumps occasionally and I usually get rid of that by doing a thorough cleaning of the coil to prevent it shorting on the coating of crap it gets on the surface that causes the spark to track.
Another one I've found has been that when the plug leads are disconnected for some reason when refitted, the rubber tends to grab both on the porcelain on the top of the plug as well as the valley where the big knob on top of where it fits onto the plug, getting jammed in the valley, both things preventing the actual terminal inside the end of the plug lead from making a good firm contact onto the top of the plug.
I use a bit of silicone grease when I reconnect these around the lip that first touches the porcelain as well as the knob at the top at the right angle bend so I am certain the plug lead clips firmly on the top of the spark plug.
It's just a theory, but I wonder if perhaps some of these cars with the ignition problems may not be making a proper contact, are throwing a spark which is intensifying and creating a load onto things like dissy caps and rotors and causing premature failures?
Alan S
Over here they are almost unheard of and from memory, the only one we ever had here was with a write off we restored where the ignition amplifier was dud possibly due to fire extinguishers and hoses being blown around when it caught fire.
Our cars have had these misses and rough running, the common one being when sitting at around the speed limit and it bucks and jumps occasionally and I usually get rid of that by doing a thorough cleaning of the coil to prevent it shorting on the coating of crap it gets on the surface that causes the spark to track.
Another one I've found has been that when the plug leads are disconnected for some reason when refitted, the rubber tends to grab both on the porcelain on the top of the plug as well as the valley where the big knob on top of where it fits onto the plug, getting jammed in the valley, both things preventing the actual terminal inside the end of the plug lead from making a good firm contact onto the top of the plug.
I use a bit of silicone grease when I reconnect these around the lip that first touches the porcelain as well as the knob at the top at the right angle bend so I am certain the plug lead clips firmly on the top of the spark plug.
It's just a theory, but I wonder if perhaps some of these cars with the ignition problems may not be making a proper contact, are throwing a spark which is intensifying and creating a load onto things like dissy caps and rotors and causing premature failures?
Alan S
The leads thing is very common here not just on BX's! I think it has more to do with the british tendancy to go for minimum cost servicing by 17 year old apprentices!!!
Just swap plugs, and oil! nobody ever takes leads off and test, cleans them or removes Dizzy caps any more, so all that crud just builds and builds untill it kills things!
I don't think our climate helps we seem to get a lot of fur on Electrical connections here, silicone grease helps but water still gets in!!
Ollie
Just swap plugs, and oil! nobody ever takes leads off and test, cleans them or removes Dizzy caps any more, so all that crud just builds and builds untill it kills things!
I don't think our climate helps we seem to get a lot of fur on Electrical connections here, silicone grease helps but water still gets in!!
Ollie
ollie,
I'm talking using the silicone grease as a lubricant to get the plug leads seated on the plugs more than a method of keeping moisture out.
Where we are poles apart (no pun intended) is that where you get the intense cold, snow etc, we get this rotten stifling heat but whilst we get the heat it is what is referred to as a "wet" heat as it has a high humidity content and as a result we both have moisture problems albeit of a different nature.
I have always been intrigued at all the ignition related problems you guys get and the problems you seem to always have getting rid of them, yet we seem to get a similar set of symptoms and can get out of it without too much drama. It was a thought that perhaps the solution may be simpler than most expect; a bit like job I had to do when I had the business where a woman was panicking because her fridge wasn't going and wanted a quote to fit a new unit.
I went out, switched it on at the wall ans away it went. Gospel truth, she forgot to turn it on but had already called the insurance to report the motor was burnt out, so it does happen and more often than we think.
Alan S
I'm talking using the silicone grease as a lubricant to get the plug leads seated on the plugs more than a method of keeping moisture out.
Where we are poles apart (no pun intended) is that where you get the intense cold, snow etc, we get this rotten stifling heat but whilst we get the heat it is what is referred to as a "wet" heat as it has a high humidity content and as a result we both have moisture problems albeit of a different nature.
I have always been intrigued at all the ignition related problems you guys get and the problems you seem to always have getting rid of them, yet we seem to get a similar set of symptoms and can get out of it without too much drama. It was a thought that perhaps the solution may be simpler than most expect; a bit like job I had to do when I had the business where a woman was panicking because her fridge wasn't going and wanted a quote to fit a new unit.
I went out, switched it on at the wall ans away it went. Gospel truth, she forgot to turn it on but had already called the insurance to report the motor was burnt out, so it does happen and more often than we think.
Alan S
Ok, so yesterday the car stoped working again... :\
I've tooked it to the mecanic, and he changed the plugs (the old ones where bad) but i've seen the new ones and they are bosch but with 4 "poles" and not 3... I didn't get the exact model, but i think that those ones are not the correct type, or am i wrong?
Can someone tell me what are the exact model of the bosch's, so tomorow morning i go there and ask if he can replace them for those?
But the car isn't ready yet, he said that there is some sort of air leak.
So lets see if tomorow i have the car back...
I've tooked it to the mecanic, and he changed the plugs (the old ones where bad) but i've seen the new ones and they are bosch but with 4 "poles" and not 3... I didn't get the exact model, but i think that those ones are not the correct type, or am i wrong?
Can someone tell me what are the exact model of the bosch's, so tomorow morning i go there and ask if he can replace them for those?
But the car isn't ready yet, he said that there is some sort of air leak.
So lets see if tomorow i have the car back...
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Tried Bosch in french cars before and they just dont run well on them. Many other citroen-enthusiasts here in sweden says the same. Most of them prefere Eyquem which is mounted original. They are easy to get here and cheap too, maybe thats a problem where you live?MoRtYMer wrote:ok got to go there tomorow morning.
Why do you say to avoid Bosch on this particular car?
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Jezziebx16v
- Moderator
- Posts: 571
- Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:13 pm
- Location: Alberta, Canada
I used the four electrode Bosch plugs (SUPER 4's) on my Ph1 for most of the time i had it, with no problems at allTheDagger wrote:I would avoid Bosch in that particular car.
Eyquem is the first choice and they are cheap. NGK works fine too.
Eyquem: RFC62LS3 (RFC58LS3 optional, depending on market)
NGK: BCPR6ET
Also the NKG plugs, 7ET are they not ?
Jez
Past 16v's: 89 Ph1 Black, 90 Ph2 Grey, 89 Ph2 Black, 91 Ph2 Grey, 91 Ph2 Black.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
Now. 94 Datsun Silvia S14 rice rocket, 85 Peugeot 505 Turbo, 77 Ford Capri.
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Anonymous
6 or 7 also depends on market, here in sweden we need plugs for cold climate, and Portugal must be opposite thenJezziebx16v wrote:I used the four electrode Bosch plugs (SUPER 4's) on my Ph1 for most of the time i had it, with no problems at allTheDagger wrote:I would avoid Bosch in that particular car.
Eyquem is the first choice and they are cheap. NGK works fine too.
Eyquem: RFC62LS3 (RFC58LS3 optional, depending on market)
NGK: BCPR6ET
Also the NKG plugs, 7ET are they not ?
Jez
UK i dont know, i guess same as sweden?
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Timmo
- Full Throttle
- Posts: 2233
- Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:30 pm
- Location: Cornwall! Tis where they make Oggy's!
- Contact:
defo 7et's here!!! the number on the plug in our case the 7 refers to the heat catagory they burn to!! the 6's are fine but dont burn so hot! i have only ever fitted 7's tomine as thats what i was recomended by all the factors!
the bosch with 4 bits (cant think of the technical name!) are the super 4's are they not?? they should be okay! but havoing never tried them i cant say for sure! but as other members have they should be okay!
the bosch with 4 bits (cant think of the technical name!) are the super 4's are they not?? they should be okay! but havoing never tried them i cant say for sure! but as other members have they should be okay!
Timmo 
After all i am the Cornish one!
Its Because its French!
Bx16v club - Sharing the love for the unloved!
After all i am the Cornish one!
Its Because its French!
Bx16v club - Sharing the love for the unloved!
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Well the car had the Eyquems 58, but should be 62 (since Portugal is a warm country), i've checked the old ones and one of the bits (poles, eletrode, what's the correct term?) was semi melted...
Someone that tried diferent plugs can say if the 16v feels better with the original 3 poles? I've saw before on a forum someone that the car was better with the 3 poles than the 4...
Got to go there tomorow to see if they can change them for the 62 Eyquems...
I don't have the car today because on the end of the day, they where finishing the car, but they think that there is a air leak somewere and the car isn't ok yet...
Someone that tried diferent plugs can say if the 16v feels better with the original 3 poles? I've saw before on a forum someone that the car was better with the 3 poles than the 4...
Got to go there tomorow to see if they can change them for the 62 Eyquems...
I don't have the car today because on the end of the day, they where finishing the car, but they think that there is a air leak somewere and the car isn't ok yet...