Time for some of the devils fuel!

All aspects of tuning,modification and repairs to the BX 16valve.
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Vanny
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Time for some of the devils fuel!

Post by Vanny »

So looks like i've sourced an engine :D still need a host of parts, but thanks to a number of members here i'm slowly gathering what i need!


So the engine i have found has a lot of miles on it, and runs, BUT i should probably have 6 months before i think about putting it in (might even lob a head gasket in the diesel and try for 10 months) and in the interim i want to have a thorough strip down and rebuild!


Question, what do i want to change? And what can i enhance?


Planning;
cambelt, tensioners, water pump, bafffled sump, full gasket change, polish the ports, valve stem seals, head gasket, bearing shells

THinking of;
balancing, uprated/renewed oil pump, custom ECU (emerald or the like), lightened fly wheel, Xantia HP pump


want to know anything else you woudl recommend, or suggestions for fun!


I'll be doing a LOT of it myself, so any tips or offers of parts greatly accepted! Thinking of ECU so i can have Economy map and sports map!
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Timmo
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Post by Timmo »

Vanny! economy map matey is right foot lightly pressed ont he pedal and sports map is right foot heavily pressed ont he pedal!! :D :D :D
its always a good idea to replace what you have listed as then your effectively having a rebuilt lump going in!
are you goign to flush through or replace fuel tanks and lines??? (the metal lines arnt that expensive from the dealers as a thought!)
Timmo 8)

After all i am the Cornish one!

Its Because its French!
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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

fuel lines are only about a year old so they can stay, and i'll simply drain the tank out and refil with petrol (which will be a funny experience as i dont think i've used a petrol pump before). A load of the piping will need to be replaced anyways as the feed line (from the tank to the pump to the engine) is differently routed.
ed_straker
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Post by ed_straker »

Maybe anything hydraulics related. Much easier to change the octupus with engine out ;-)
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Adrian E
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Post by Adrian E »

Vanny

Unless you're going to do a lot more in terms of mods to the engine I'd steer clear of the ECU change - it'll eat a sizeable hole in your budget without making a massive difference. Bare in mind that Chris' old car wasn't exactly super quick with TBs and ECU, which may well be down to the base engine, but even so unless you're going forced induction of some sort i'd stay with standard - especially if you're intending to insure the car as a standard 16V - ECU would defo count as a mod!

Interestingly I found out the other day that Emerald don't appear to bother with CE or e-marking their products, which basically means they've not undergone any sort of testing for Electro Magnetic Compatibility :shock: It's actually breaking a couple of laws to install one of their ECUs into a vehicle which was originally approved under ECWVTA (EC Whole Vehicle Type Approval) which basically means most from about 1998 (might be earlier, don't have the date in front of me), unless they just don't publicise the fact they've got the approvals - doesn't refer to them in their downloadable manual, and my understanding is it should if tested.

Baffled sump sounds a very good plan if your planning on track day use.
Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

ed_straker wrote:Maybe anything hydraulics related. Much easier to change the octupus with engine out ;-)

Octopie where recently replaced, as was the pinion valve seals, which went wrong and blew up the ram! Need new seals though as i had to butcher the old ones to get them to move :( This time i have lots of pictures and a second pinion to go by!
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Toddman
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rebuild

Post by Toddman »

No need for a new ecu unless you fancy breaking the 200BHP mark 8)
Judging by what you have said I would chuck some ARP rod bolts in there and a nice meaty Catcam inlet stick, you can't go too mad with the flywheel due to the timing ring on it but a decent clutch is worthwhile.

As you know oyur way round the electrics you could pick up a cheap 3.1 from an earky ZX Volcane or BX 8v GTi and use that to run the engine it will just need a mapping by someone like Wayne Schofiel but uses a MAP sensor instead of the SAFM so should work well.
Usual clean up and 3 angle seats on the head should release a genuine 180BHP 8)

Cheers
Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
Mike E (uk)
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Post by Mike E (uk) »

I would look into fitting a solid state distributor. I know thay can be fitted coz Owen has one on his car.

That would remove one problematic area.

Replace every gasket & seal you find too.
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