Few issues

Tim2cv · Post by **Tim2cv** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 4:06 pm

My car finially has an mot but has a few annoying issues, least bothered first.

Rear arm bearings have seen better days. you can tell when you drive it and I can see them a little bit. also when i had the tracking done i saw they were out on the measuring thing with the light.

drop links are dead and rattle alot on every bump

Most importantly:

THE CAR FEELS SO SLOW!
It's dead flat and tight and my mate who drove it agreed. His TZD Turbo felt faster!!! Thats just wrong!

It is still whirry but i'm not convinced its the altenator belt anymore having slackened it off... Maybe its the cambelt? hope not as that will be a pain in the ass! Seems next week i have alot of work to do.

Any clues? why is it so slow? The green beast (i wish i still had it) was fast as fcuk!

TIM

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:37 pm

If you have an automotive stethoscope, run it firstly on the alternator to see if the whirring is coming from the bearings as they can get a bit rough. If that checks out, then try it around the cambelt area. Overtight cambelts whir.

Don't bother trying to adjust it as it's false economy. If it's been too tight, it will be damaged in the webbing either due to tension or through getting too hot; replace it.
Performance; How long's a piece of string? type of diagnosis without knowing the history and the model (Cat or no Cat etc). Check compression, remove and clean out the injectors and check the condition of the spark plugs. Exhaust system (or Cat if applicable) should be checked for blockages.
From then it's a case of checking lambda, CAS, engine temp and any other sensors your model may have that are capable of affecting it. How is the fuel consumption? How does it idle? Is it revving out? Does it have low down power but no high end? Are there any air leaks on the intake side? I think you need to narrow down the symptoms methodically or you'll end up spending a lot of time chasing rainbows.

Alan S

Post by **Toddman** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:00 pm

Good that the MOT has been sorte dtIm sorry to hear the car is not giving its full potential yet.

I would be inclined to chuck it on some rollers just to be sure what is going on.

This is the car that Vanny helped resurrect isn't it?
So I would check with him exactly what he had done then see about fuel filter,plugs,leads cap and arm etc you know genersl servicing and clean up all the electrics AFM ICV etc etc.

You may well find a decent RR serssion of about £30 will point directly to any problem if there is one/

Cheers
Luke

Tim2cv · Post by **Tim2cv** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:46 pm

http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3887

more ideas please!!!

Thanks

TIM

Post by **Toddman** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:12 pm

I have read that thread Tim

I would not entertain setting the cam timing without stepped pins although dougaldog did show me an interesting get out

Without anyone actually driving this car before the head swap it could be any manner of things - might even be a low comp engine.

I have a comp tester etc here so feel free to take a road trip or if you need some bits I am happy to lend oyu them.

Cheers
Luke

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 8:43 pm

i have to say when i did mine i used lukes pins and they were a godsend! you can do it with drill bits or even exhaust sealing ring bolts BUT! they are not perfect! the stepped pins i borrowed were great! as with everything, all jobs are doable with minimal tools But the job becomes a lot easier with the proper tools!

checking the timing is relatively simple! whip the cam cover off and making sure the crank is in the right position, (locking bar sloths through and keeps it inplace!) check the cam pulleys line up! (took me about as long to get my cam cover off as it did to change and time the belt loL! ) if the timing needs doing it its worth checkign if the tensioner bolts are good! if they are still the allen bolts then i owuld suggest swapping them over for normal 1/2" bolts if needed! makes it a lot easier! and the sump plug key fits int he tensioner to time it up!

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:34 pm

Just remember too, that before you start trying to check the camtiming, that you take the spark plugs out or you'll catch yourself out if it drops off compression. If this timing is out (and I'll be surprised if it is the cause) chances sre it will be between the two camsprockets if it has been previously set without pins and more so if it was done with the spark plugs in place. As I said previously, without details and a systematic troubleshoot, looking for a problem like this is like a ticket in the Pools; you might get luckyand hit the jackpot, but the odds are against you.

Alan S

Post by **Vanny** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:57 pm

AlanS wrote:Just remember too, that you take the spark plugs out

Thats a pretty good point, and i think i did take them out when i timed it up, and of course the illustrious 'Toddman Timing Pins' where used!

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:54 am

I agree that you need to make a road trip to compare with someones which does work! otherwise you could just be chasing false leads for ages!
As for the other problems, I have some recent recon arms if that helps and they're a quick enough swap.
Drop link ball joints all do that! either buy new which is cheap and easy or if you're stingy just warm up the grease in them and turn the balls around 90 degrees!! I just swap all the noisy ones about for used on mine and the different operating position shuts them up for ages!!

Ollie

ed_straker · Post by **ed_straker** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:43 am

Didn't use the timing belt pins, they dont even have them at our garage

They use screws instead, worked pretty well (the difference in clearence isnt even one tooth (!?) of the belt).

Tim2cv · Post by **Tim2cv** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:48 pm

hey, yes i need to investigate more. feels abit slow but I am starting to think the clutch isnt that great either... or just badly adjusted...
Loosened the cover off the cambelt to have a look and feel inside and its rock hard (very tight) this cant be right? it smells too. have not had chance to check anything else yet. Getting a compression tester later tonight to have a look that.
TIM

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 4:02 pm

You may already know this Tim, but how is the exhaust? These engines seem to suffer badly when there is a blow or when the centre divider of the downpipe is corroded.

Tim2cv · Post by **Tim2cv** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 4:08 pm

exhaust seems ok, slight blow from mid clamp but not mot fail bad, downpipe looks in reasonable condition although abit bent in one place for some reason? maybe after the smash? didnt think of that when i questioned it the firt time i saw it... actually, to have wrecked the exhaust the crash would have totalled the car right?

I will give it a tap next time i'm under it with a hammer and see if it rattles...

cheers
TIM

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