Coolant Flush

All aspects of tuning,modification and repairs to the BX 16valve.
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tim leech
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Coolant Flush

Post by tim leech »

Guys im going to attempt to flush my cooling system on my car saturday afternoon and fit the new fanswitch. Im removing the rad and going to give it a thorough flush through also, I want to refill with 50% antifreeze, 50% water, how much does the system take in total? So I know how much to buy.


Thanks in advance.
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Toddman
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Post by Toddman »

Please call me Luke :)
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Thanks Luke.

Any pointers that I should worry about, I Know about making sure my bleed screws are open etc. Doesnt look that much of a difficult job even for the most backward of people like myself.
ed_straker
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Post by ed_straker »

Put on the heating, and bleed the cooling system again.
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tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Will do guys thanks, my car has aircon but im sure that doesnt alter anything? May refit the compressor whilst im at it someone took it off when the rebuilt then engine after it went BANG!
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Toddman
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rad

Post by Toddman »

It is a pretty simple job Tim but just have to be a bit carefull when lifting the rad out as it is tight against the inlet manifold and easy to damage the fins

Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke :)
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
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Adrian E
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Post by Adrian E »

As Luke says - easiest way I've found to get the rad out once you've removed the nose clips is to lift it slightly, then lift one end right up vertical and feed the radiator back over the top of the engine (hope that makes sense!)
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thanuttiscotsman
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Post by thanuttiscotsman »

hi tim,
i was digging in about that area of my car yesterday, it was a bit of a pain so ill give you a heads up! :wink: when you open the bonnet you will see the black plastic rad cover. on top there is 5 10ml bolts, these are the hazard. before you take them out look under and you will see the other side where the bolts screw into, they are just small bits welded on i think. check these first to see if they are rusty if they are then when you take the bolts out do it very slowy or the screw part on the other side just snaps off then its a real bugger to unscrew because you have to hold it on one side and screw it from the other. :evil: as i found out the hard way. the bolts dont look rusty on top so i gave them the rapid ratchet treatment and snapped 2 of the bolts. :evil: :x :roll: good luck im sure you will manage!

cheers rossco
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection

1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)
tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Thanks rossco, Ian Fearn told me the same thing so Im going to wd40 the night before hand so I dont end up snapping them.
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Post by ollie »

Which rad flusha re you using? some aren't that effective, the two stage ones are definately best, the halfords one, which is like the holts one, strips the rust back to shiny steel if you let it!
tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

I need to get some of that lol


Was just going to flush with water?
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Toddman
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flush

Post by Toddman »

Tim - most flushes require the rad in situ and you just add them into the header tank and run the car for a while so might be worth looking into before you start dismantling things.

Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke :)
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
tim leech
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Post by tim leech »

Job Done! Bought some radflush from halfrauds, to be honest the water that came out was clean anyway, and quite blue so had antifreeze anyway. better to be sure though,

Couldnt get the rad out anyway, mines a aircon car and the pipes are restrictive.

Took a bit of doing getting the air out but Ive measued 7 litresgoing in so i think its ok and didnt get hot very quick.

Didnt have a spanner large enough for the thermoswitch so thats a job for next time.
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