CO % ??

[Jezziebx16v]

I can't evan manage to get the black cover off mine, tried levering it off but the plastic is starting to crack, its well on there .


Jez

[thanuttiscotsman]

hi there,
the cover is silicone sealed to stop it getting damp i guess so you have to cut through it with stanley or similar.

rossco

[Jezziebx16v]

hi there,
the cover is silicone sealed to stop it getting damp i guess so you have to cut through it with stanley or similar.

rossco

Don't like the sound of that, not until i have a replacement anyways.

Jez

[thanuttiscotsman]

hi there,
dont worry it pops off easier than you think and there is no way of breaking it really, well not so it becomes un-operational.

rossco

[Anonymous]

hi peeps,
well i have the same problem and what im going to try in about 1 hour is using 1500 went n dry and im going to rub down the carbon track to remove the shiny smoothed worn part where the track runs. im sure the rest of the surface is slightly rougher compared to the worn line and im sure rubbing down 1 micro milimeter wont cause problems as the layers or thickness i dont imadgine will affect the workings. i will report back later.

cheers rossco

The tracks are apparently, according to a Citroen course I attended , adjusted to a very precise value by a laser etching machine, so in theory 1micrometer shavings will make a difference. The tracks always seem to have grooving and discoloration where the wiper contacts it with no detriment to its operation. Try electrical contact cleaner and connecting a multimeter to it and gradually operating it manually and watch reading (set to Ohms) to detect breaks.

[thanuttiscotsman]

The tracks are apparently, according to a Citroen course I attended , adjusted to a very precise value by a laser etching machine, so in theory 1micrometer shavings will make a difference. The tracks always seem to have grooving and discoloration where the wiper contacts it with no detriment to its operation. Try electrical contact cleaner and connecting a multimeter to it and gradually operating it manually and watch reading (set to Ohms) to detect breaks.

hi there,
well im glad you told me and im glad i havnt done it yet or that would be a waste of the 205 quid i paid for the re-conditioned bloody thing. well i will clean it with petrol or something and see if that helps.

cheers rossco

[Mike E (uk)]

Toddman said:

"The AFM has a contact attached to the vane and this runs along a carbon track - after time the track where the contact moves becomes worn so a new track is needed to give a good contact.

So you move the contact in/out a little so that it runs along a new path i.e. a new or re-track."

I have only just seen this text on the forum, but yes Luke, it was exactly that which I did.

The CO is now 1.5%, and after a fill up with that new Shell fuel, the car goes better than it ever did.
When tested on the dyno last year, it met the right figures, but it is running noticeably better now.

On my car, the carbon track was worn, which made the idle hunt and misfire, and gave a very smelly exhaust. It also run lumpily at low throttle settings.

The AFM lid has a lip only a few mm deep, make sure you lever on this bit.

You can test for this by removing the AFM lid & gently pressing down on the wiper at different places while the engine idles, and see if this smoothes the idle.
I cleaned the track 1st with IPA.
Then I pressed on the 2 wiper arms near the pivot, until they were slightly bent so the contact was closer to the inner part of the track.
Gently does it.
Then I adjusted the idle screw for 1.5%.
Previously, the adjusting the CO pot did nothing.

I am very pleased with the result.

[thanuttiscotsman]

Toddman said:

"The AFM has a contact attached to the vane and this runs along a carbon track - after time the track where the contact moves becomes worn so a new track is needed to give a good contact.

So you move the contact in/out a little so that it runs along a new path i.e. a new or re-track."

hi mike,
i have tried retracking mine but it appears that you dont make a new track! you only adjust it from left to right meaning its the same track but just starting in a different place.
so if im wrong then i must me trying to do this the wrong way, so whats the right way?? what i did was unscrew the little silver screw on the arm that contacts the track and i moved it round to the right a little but there didnt seem to be any play for it to go forward or back which would put it on a new track!!! so how is it done then?? does anyone have a quick pic of what screw etc need to be loosened etc.

ps when i messed with mine the idle is already smoother but not quite how it should be.

cheers rossco

[Mike E (uk)]

dont clean it in petrol, that may leave the additives behind when it evaporates. Get some IPA or similar.

I did not touch any screws.
you don't want to move the wiper left or right, merely get it to sit slightly closer to the pivot- ie reduce the radius of the wiper so it tracks a slightly different path, parallel to the original track.
I bent the contacts by gently pushing down on the two sides of the fork with a flat bladed screwdriver.

After this has been done, the CO in the exhaust should be checked and readjusted with the potentiometer if required.

I will take a photo of mine if I remember tomorrow, as there seems to be a lot of interest in sorting this AFM issue.

Mike

[thanuttiscotsman]

hi mike,
thanks for explaining that now i understand!! i will adjust it that way tomorrow and im sure it will solve my random revving up on startup problem. oh no need for a pic as i fully understand your description.

thanks again, cheers rossco

[thanuttiscotsman]

hi there,
just a wee update on the progress, well i have re-tracked it properly today and she is running even smoother than the last improvement! cheers mike . she is still idling high though.

cheers rossco

[kriskarrera]

connecting a multimeter to it and gradually operating it manually and watch reading (set to Ohms) to detect breaks.

I did that to mine last night and as I opened the vane the ohms quickly increased to 600-700 but didn't climb any higher!
Now, according the the CAPS Mi16 diagnostic demo the resistance with the flap fully open should be 1000-2500 ohms. Mine aint. Oh. Anyone else tested theirs?