Piston rings/bearing shells. Timing belt caution.

[Anonymous]

Two queries: does anyone know a source of reasonably priced piston rings for BX16v?
Also, although I've worked on BXs since thet were released in the early eighties, I've never done a reshell (crankshaft big/mains/thrust). If I order standard shells from a motor factor, do they come as two complete sets, or do I have to go and order each bearing pair individually according to original tolerances of individual journals?
Thankyou, any other engine rebuild advice gained through costly/painful experience also welcome!
Finally which make of engine does the larger inlet valves I keeep hearing about originate from??
Many thanks Tobytronicstereophonic.
Just one final tip of my own: in 1988 we sold a new 16v, the engine, after just 1800miles, came back wrecked as the bolts holding the cover BEHIND the timing belt had worked loose. I did a 16v timing belt last week and these bolts were also on the slack side (1989 model), so it's worth checking these at belt change time.

[Kitch]

I can't remember for sure what make they were, I think mine were Glaser but could be wrong. They worked out at about £18 x4. Came with all three rings in each.
Not much help though sorry

My bearings came in one pack together. All the big ends in one, all the mains in another and the thrust washers came seperately. The big ends are 0.3mm oversize. All my journals were ground to the same level, so never needed to find out if they came individually.

[ollie]

Glacier or Hepolite being the big names in replacement ones, part of a bigger group of companies, most factors will have the book.

By far the easiest tho is to contact a reconditioners, theyre usually helpfull and quite happy to sell you the parts on there own cos they know they'll get the machining when you find it!!
and cos thats what they do they'll get the right quantities of the right bits.....

Ollie

[AlanS]

My car lost an engine early in its life due to (from what I've been told) the stud that the front cover of the timing belt 'keyholes' into. It simply dropped, was caught in the belt and "goodnight nurse."
I reckon it'd be worth dabbing a drop of Loctite on everything associated with the job internally as well as the crankshaft bolt (which I recently discovered, they do on the Xsara,) due to the vibration created by the high revs.
When working on racing engines, we always worked with a tube of Loctite in our hands almost.
If it's any consolation, a guy I know who is a farmer bought a 16V new in around 1989/90. Leaving home early one morning, the idle gets rough and the engine noisy and at an intersection about 200 metres from his front gate the engine stalls and gives a bit of a clatter as it does. Won't restart so has to get it flatbedded to his dealer about 120 klms away. Dealer rings and tells him he'd best get down there to see what's happened. Sure enough, engine top end carked.
Cause???? A mouse had decided to set up home in the timing cover and had got itself and some of it's relations wrapped up around the crank pulley which caused the belt to snap, so I suppose, if it's gunna get you, all the precautions in the world won't protect you 100%



Alan S

[Toddman]

Glacier and Hep are good makes not sure if Vandervall are still out there but they were also v good.
HiFlowheads offer many parts and there is a link on the mainsite along with QEP who are very helpfull ring them and ask for Matt.

Cheers
Luke

[kriskarrera]

Just one final tip of my own: in 1988 we sold a new 16v, the engine, after just 1800miles, came back wrecked as the bolts holding the cover BEHIND the timing belt had worked loose. I did a 16v timing belt last week and these bolts were also on the slack side (1989 model), so it's worth checking these at belt change time.

My belt change is due in Feb I'll remember that!