Removing and replacing rear discs and pads

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:54 am

Right, my new discs and pads have arrived in the post, woo! So it's time to remove and replace discs and pads. I am capable of following the Haynes manual - I just wanted to know, would I be advised to replace springs/retaining clips/screws while I'm at it? The Haynes seems to suggest I won't need to, but I thought if anyone has done this before they could advise me on it. I don't want to get in there and break an old clip or something, leaving me carless while I wait for the main dealer to get parts in.

Thanks for the tip about the bleed screws Vanny (think it was you in another post), I will replace them when I bleed the brakes.

mechuccio · Post by **mechuccio** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:37 am

You don't need to repace the springs/retaining clips/screws, just make sure that you clean everything (especially the bolt on which the pads slide + use some grase there) My rear brakes havn't been working for at least 2 years when I bought the car. The disks were very crunchy and the pads were new

I took the calipers apart and cleaned everything inside out. the rear calipers are quite easy to disassemble and reassemble ->just mind the stel hydraulics tube<- just after cleaning my rear brakes it was a world of difference!

Post by **Adrian E** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 11:47 am

Make sure the screwdriver you use to undo the disc retaining screws fits perfectly (it's quite a large one) and if it doesn't move easily put plenty of penetrating spray on it and walk away for half an hour.

If it still doesn't shift get yourself an impact driver! Drilling out should be the last resort, not the first! If you muller the screws, or they look like they've been attacked before get some new ones as they're only pennies

Adrian

jayw · Post by **jayw** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:14 pm

And if you do decide to seperate the 2 halves of the calipers make sure you don't lose the 'O' ring that seals the fluid passageway together
(though it is a good idea to gently prise it out and turn it over to give it a nice fresh seal).

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:58 pm

Adrian E wrote:If it still doesn't shift get yourself an impact driver!

One of my favourite tools! It once took me 3 days to remove a Renault 4 wheelnut using one

Channel Hopper · Post by **Channel Hopper** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:12 am

djoptix wrote: One of my favourite tools! It once took me 3 days to remove a Renault 4 wheelnut using one

The Renault wheel use left hand threads if I recall, easy mistake to make.

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:21 am

Cheeky b***er (no they don't, for those of you who are wondering)

Post by **Vanny** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:06 am

if you have to physically remove the screws, best method i have found is to cut an 'X' into the head with a wide grinding disk about 2mm (if that), then beat the crpa out of the back of the disc. The screw head usually fails and flys off, and the head you put into the screw while grinding loosens it right up and this method leaves sufficient stud to get grips on and unscrew! Onlythig you damage in the process is the old disc, shame!

absolutley want to do those nipples! Citroen supply them in what looks like hardened metal (there black not yellowy brass coloured) which i only hope means the buggers will come back out!

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:58 am

Right, I'm off to GSF for some "brake pad spindle bolts", whatever they are, then today is the day. Wish me luck!...

I've decided to skip bleeding them for today unless I get the discs and pads done really quickly. I'll pick up some Hydraflush and run that through first.

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:02 pm

Crap. Failure. And why? The b*£$rd pad cover bolts are rusted in place. What a stupid reason!

So do I shell out for a set of ring spanners (or a grinder) and try and get them off? Or just send it to the local garage, bearing in mind I've already bought discs and pads?

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:29 pm

just prise cover off with screwdriver, and then cut through biolts with hacksaw blade and then knock em out
Done

Ollie

Post by **Toddman** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:06 pm

Common problem but a good fitting socket and spanner usually shears the boly anyway.

My local cit man had the covers and bolts in stock.
Another usefull tip is that the calipers are not sided so if you need a spare any side will do.

Cheers
Luke

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:31 pm

Off went the car to the garage (I really had no time to do it myself, not for the next few weeks anyway). Brake pipe got broken and it is there until at least Thursday

ARSE!

Daniel B · Post by **Daniel B** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:59 pm

But on the bright side come Thursday or the weekend it will all be fixed and you'll be motoring again

I'm dropping mine down on Saturday for a service, mot, new sunroof, new power steering pipe etc etc

My total mileage to get there in 2 cars (for one way) via Southampton will be approx 250 miles

Dan

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:20 pm

I'm wondering about doing all the other pipes front-rear. I believe there are 4 in total, one of which is now new. How tricky is it to replace them, if I do them all in one go? And how much are they? From the looks of the GSF online catalogue they're not too expensive, but the descriptions aren't all that helpful so I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right ones.

BX16V.com Forum

BX16V.com Forum

Removing and replacing rear discs and pads

Removing and replacing rear discs and pads

bolts