Bit of a starting issue

[Dave]

I have just been browsing the old forum for threads on starting problems. There are many, some quite worrying but I do not think I have a severe issue.

About 6 weeks ago the car started but ran roughly as if missing on one cylinder. I put this down to condensation as my bike did the same. A bit of wd and the bike was cured.

However the BX carried on to run a bit rough on the driveway. Now it was VERY low on fuel and may have even run out, I think it did (this could be the faux pas). I had a nice gerry can full of V power ready so now have V power in the tank. The problem is the car turns over and over from cold, may splutter a bit, carries on turning over and eventually will fire up. Previously I did take the plugs out which were very wet, warmed them with a blow torch and found it started immediatly. This did not work the next time.

If the car is left more than a couple of days this problem surfaces. Again today, took ages to start so clearly something wrong. I kind of suspect dirt or contaminated fuel,(the old stuff was in a while). Once started it runs fine.

The last time I remember having any problem with starting was when a previous engine was jet washed, behaved in a similar way but would not start until it dried out over a day later. I think the little module on the bulk head got wet. I know they hate water so have put some wd on it today!

So, I will be changing the fuel filter as this is due anyway and hope fuel is not bad. I may change the plugs, they are single electrode Bosch but since it has run fine with these I am not sure they will be the casue and they have done little mileage. I have adjusted the gap today to .8, it was less for some reason. If I change I will get triples. I have cleaned up the coil connection today also.

I fitted a new dizzy cap about a year ago. It came from GSF, I requested OEM but came out with BERU . Has been OK to date. Also have Magnecor leads, very little use, fitted with Dizzy.

Something I have done today may solve the issue but I will not know until Tuesday or so.

I guess I am sharing the issue really but equally wondering if any ideas to cut down on unecessary work and stress

[Timmo]

Mine wont run on std plugs and needs the triple ended ones! (bcp7et)
may be worth if you havent yet, taking the dizzy cap of and check the inside of the cap and also the condition of the arm, mine was a PITA when i had an iffy cap on it! would run fine till up to temp then cut out and wouldnt start!

it could be that the injecters are a bit dirty since yousaid it ran out of fuel,could be worth popping the rail off and checking them if it continues, had similar with mine Years ago, tried everything and then swapped injecters and all was fine!

[Anonymous]

Single side electrode plugs should be fine: after all, it ran ok before on them. Contrary to popular belief, the multi side electrodes are ONLY for plug service life longevity. This is backed up by an article by NGK in last month's Professional Motor Mechanic. If you think about it, one spark per cycle can only jump from one place, the idea is, that as one side electrode wears, the next closes takes over and so on..... The centre electrode is a hard wearing alloy, so lasts longer than conventional plugs. A similar Bosch publication also backs this up.
Try fresh fuel. You can completely empty the tank by taking out the sender unit from under the back seat and syphon/pump it out. Have a look for water/diesel contamination.
Have a look at all the multi block connectors under the bonnet for corrosion. Most 16vs have at least some!
From then on, work through the basics, slowly & methodically, checking voltage throughout the system. Avoid jumping to conclusion (they're never right and cost money), or trying something because on someone elses car it cured it. MOST starting/running faults are down to poor connections or corrosion. If with fresh fuel, the plugs still get wet it almost certainly is down to a problem on the ignition side. The connector blocks on top of the 'box and over the top of the engine are favorites for corrosion. If none of this comes up trumps I'll have a go at a step-by-step-reply, using my own 16v as a reference. Good luck.

[Dave]

Hi Timmo

I read your post on the old forum about your problem with single plugs. I may well try putting the old dizzy back on. It worked fine, just looked a bit worn so thought I would replace it. I did take the Beru one off about the second time this happened. It looked ok, was dry inside and of course it started with a turn of the key when fitted back. I had also checked all the Magnecor connections at the time so could have been either of just coincidence.

Tobytronic,

I will try the car again tomorrow. I did clean a few connections yesterday. It may be that sorted it. I want to leave it a day or so as the problem surfaces then. Checking the fuel via the sender is good tip. That will make it quite easy should I have to take that route and fortunately there is only a couple of gallons in. I still have some of the V Power in the Gerry can too. I will check that also.

I will have a tinker over the next couple of days, see what crops up and report back.


Thanks for the help so far, a problem shared and all that.

[Toddman]

The Beru caps are pretty good quality but these cars do tend to eat dizzy caps.
Worth checking the rotor arm as these do go as well and can cause horrendous trouble.
Plug leads are also critical as the cheaper items tend to allow arcing all ove rthe place, night time checking is recomended.

The coil can also go dry and the wiring to it is not the best in the world - don't forget the ign mp too.

Another place to clean and check is under the battery try wher ethere is a black box type block of connections that gets corroded.

Cheers
Luke

[Dave]

Update....

After having the cold from hell since Sunday night and going through several Lem-sips and a box and a half of mansize tissues (on offer 99p in Boots), I went to the garage today, didn't touch anything. Just thought I would see if it started (last tried Saturday). Turned the key and presto, couple of turns and burst into life.


On Saturday I did open the plug gaps to .8. For some reason they were a lot less

So, it may have been that, something which was moved or the module on the bulk-head damp which I also cleaned up.

Then again the problem may re-occur, certainly hope not but will try again on Saturday. I will be putting the Total Quartz 5/40 in then (thanks Luke)

I may well check all the various things suggested anyway. As for the rotor arm, what do they look like when worn. Presumably the metal bit gets pitted or something. I know mine shows no signs of any ware in that respect which I find unusual. I have never replaced it.

Also (Luke), when you refer to the "ign mp" what exactly do you mean

[martyn]

....As for the rotor arm, what do they look like when worn. Presumably the metal bit gets pitted or something. I know mine shows no signs of any ware in that respect which I find unusual. I have never replaced it.

Also (Luke), when you refer to the "ign mp" what exactly do you mean

Mine was this bad and still ran fine



ignition amp/module

[Vanny]

Martyn, how on earth did that run, the cap looks mullered

Did a job on a polo on monday and the cap on that didnt look too bad until i poked the contacts and half of each o fthem fell off, NOT GOOD. Slowly getting to grips with this petrol stuff!

[Dave]

....As for the rotor arm, what do they look like when worn. Presumably the metal bit gets pitted or something. I know mine shows no signs of any ware in that respect which I find unusual. I have never replaced it.

Also (Luke), when you refer to the "ign mp" what exactly do you mean

ignition amp/module

Martyn,

Thanks for the photo, that would be the part on the bulkhead which I cleaned up on Saturday. Hopefully that will have been the problem.

[Dave]

Just to update you on this, the car has started fine all week. I am almost 100% sure it will have been the little module in the photo above. It must have got a bit damp or dirty on a connection. Relief