Quickshift - anybody tried it?

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:45 pm

clicky

Looks interesting - would it fit a 16v? Mine is a bit graunchy going into 2nd when you have your foot down... and a quicker shift sounds like a good idea, I always thought the 16v shift was a bit long.

Post by **Adrian E** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:16 pm

A quickshift would make your 2nd gear crunch worse rather than better - 'tis a sign of worn synchros.

Looks a decent quality product, but not sure if it's compatible?

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:03 pm

iirc you have to do something to the arm on the box for it to work on ours, luke told me about it a fair while ago, but with that one having an adjustable bit it may well work!
sorting your crunching out as such, mine got a Lot better whren i put in some thicker oil! i run mine on EP80 and dont suffer half as much as i used to!
It has been said that a quickshift set can be used to beat the synchros and avoid the crunching!

Simran · Post by **Simran** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:14 pm

I thought a quickshift kit would make worn synchros stand out more, by beating the synchros, you're not giving them time to match speeds, so the crunching will be worse?

Post by **Adrian E** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:25 pm

Simran goes straight to the top of the class

Synchros are exactly that - they help match the speed of 2 gears rotating as they engage. If you try to change quickly and it crunches it's because the synchro rings aren't engaging as early/quickly as they used to due to wear.

All you'll do with a quickshift is try to apply more force to 2 gears that really don't want to be forced together.

Fitting a quickshift to an otherwise sound but old box may cause the synchros to fail if as a result you end up changing gear more forcibly most of the time.

Seem to recall 306s suffered early gearbox failures and that a q-shift would pretty much guarantee a blown box

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:15 pm

wonders off into the corner and hangs head in shame!

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:25 pm

Bugger. What can I do to sort out my shift to 2nd then? Apart from double declutch.

Luke, I think I remember you telling me about some workaround for the shift but I can't remember what. Any chance you could enlighten me...?

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 4:36 pm

What thikness oil have you in the box??

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:10 pm

Quick shift kits just change the position of leverage points, which is all very exiting....
But speeding them up / making the movements smaller justs increases the chance of missing the right hole or of course buggering up the internals of the box faster!

If it crunches - change slower!

Only oil I've found to work properly every time is the Total BV 75w80 that oddly enough the box was designed for.......

And if you've a good box you wish to destroy to save yourself the anguish of 1/2 second gearchanges you could just modify the linkeage you've allreday got by cutting and shutting it yourself with a welder for no dosh at all.

Ollie

Post by **Vanny** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:11 am

rather than cutting and shutting you could just add a second ball joint, and i think i have some in a load of cit parts i bought, only takes a small hole to be drilled that way and can be done in situ!

as for curing crunchyness, will an additive like slick 50 help?

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 4:29 pm

ollie wrote: And if you've a good box you wish to destroy to save yourself the anguish of 1/2 second gearchanges you could just modify the linkeage you've allreday got by cutting and shutting it yourself with a welder for no dosh at all.

I'm not trying to destroy boxes, Ollie, so keep the sarky comments to yourself please! Mine doesn't graunch, it just doesn't go in when I've got the pedal to the metal. I drove BarnsleyBX's TZD and the box was way tighter than the one on my 16v, which doesn't seem right to me... and which leads me to think that the linkages or balljoints on mine could be worn. It's only done about 80k.

Post by **Jezziebx16v** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:12 pm

I know after I had all my gear linkages and ball joints replaced the gear change seemed a bit smoother

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:29 pm

the throw on the gear shift 1-2 is somewhat ponderous on the BX.

The BX was not really designed to be a sports car, so does not have a sports-car-like shift.

I agree worn synchros seem unlikely on a lowish milage box, mine are fine after 123,000

I had a 16VBX which had only done 1/2 that mileage, and the 'box was tighter than mine, with a better feel to it, so perhaps your linkages require adjustment or a change of gearbox oil would help.

Mike

djoptix · Post by **djoptix** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:20 pm

Righty ho, a change of oil and balljoints it is then. Thanks chaps

ollie · Post by **ollie** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 7:16 am

Not being sarky, but if the box isn't going into gear smoothly/ quickly thats probally cos the synchro is still waiting to do its job and will let it in when its ready! or of course the dog teath are less pointy than they where cos of fast gearchanges! (And beating the synchros)
Perhaps a TD changing gear at 2 to 3 K puts rather less strain on the synchro than a 0-60 blast at 6 to 7 K, I'm not saying you or its previous owner do that all the time but rememebr that a TZD is statistically likely to have a rather less hurried operator!!!
Having said that I've driven some pretty shocking diesel gearboxes as well, buts they've been down to draging clutches or broken pedal boxes.

I agree the linkeage is ponderous, but being ponderous will allow it to live a lot longer

Ollie

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Quickshift - anybody tried it?

Quickshift - anybody tried it?