BX16V.com Forum

hi viktor, nice pics, the car looks like she needs some tlc! i noticed in one of your pics you throttle cable has a bend in it at the throttle body end, you will prolly want to straighten that out too as im sure it wont help.

anyway i have had a thought that might make solving your problems alot easier! i have somewhere a spare 2 row wiring loom but i dont have an extra 2 row ecu, but anyway maybe it will be easier to convert your car back to its origional 2 row system with an early 119 or a 1990's 140.

anyway if someone else here has a 2 row ecu, i have a loom your welcome to, you will find it easier im sure if you were trying to use a system that was designed for your car and not trying bodge one thats not really ment to be there. let me know what you think and maybe we can work something out.

rossco

i was thinking about that , but couldn't find 2 row spare here in lithuania but have found ecu ... anyway i'a far away out of budget need to change oil + new radiator + driving school (250 pounds) + license(minimum 50 punds) + second small car (i'm thinking about 205 pug with 1.9d , and thats about 205pounds) for begining driver ... and thats a whole lot of money ...

and what is TLC ?

hello again viktor, listen im going down to edinburgh tomorrow, i will have a look again in my garage because im not exactly sure what ecu's and parts i have. i was just thinking about it and last time i was there i think i seen a 2 row ecu under some ski's and there may be 2 ecus in my red car and another 1 my silver car. if that is the case then i will actually have an extra 2 row ecu. if i find one then if you want you can post the 3 row ecu back to me and i will send you a 2 row ecu and loom to try that on your car. im not promising anything but i think there may be one, i will check and get back to you in a couple days.

rossco

last week had saome war with RUST siriusly body is in better condition then i expected will post some photos a bit latter...
but couldn't test the ecu spare wiring bacause of remuved batery and afm for body works ... but suxesifuly removed AC radiator , pump and pipes ... all this work and removed huge amount of lhm/sand micture (nasty ) from the car made it minimum 30kg lighter

oh , and i had my first oficial driving lesson today

dont want to make new theme so i'll ask here - hat do you think about eletric turbo ? if not for biger psi then for better cold air intke ... ? but i'm thinking not about things from e-bay... i'm thinking about those salone ventilators (dont know how they are called in english ) they hawe some power ...

you have a pm

mechuccio wrote:

Vanny wrote:354 is for the Mk2 16v, with and without AC and in theory with or without CAT. There are 5 different wiring looms for the BX engine management that i have seen. Three have 2 row ECU's and 3 have 3 row ECU's.

The wiring and ECU pairs are swapable to any engine, however I do not believe a 119 loom will correctly connect to a 354 ECU. Beyond the fact they function quite differently, i think the 119 loom has connections missing that are required by a 354 loom.

About the 354, that's absolutely true, I've got a belgian model without Cat and with the 354.

But as I understand it well the 140 and 119 are both suitable for a MK1.
As I'm also searching for a new one that doubles the chances to find one

Yes they are!

In my mk1 i have tested fine ECU's with these numbers: 119, 125, 139, 140. All these are 2 row and work fine in mk1 valvers.

Complete information can be found here:
Peugeot:
http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/Catalogue/peugeot.htm

Citroën:
http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/Catalogue/citroen.htm

soupapes thanks for the link was looking for the info on AFS's.

Viktor TLC = Tender Loving Care..

have another small problem - windows are closing slow, and front roght window only opens... could some one show me mx wiering scheme ?

if the front right window only opens but doesnt close it is most likely the switch needs replaced, you can sometimes get away with taking them apart and cleaning the little metal switch contacts, also check they are sitting correctly where they should be. i have a few spare window switches if you need one, but check you cant fix it first.

rossco

Viktor wrote:- windows are closing slow

slow windows are usually a result of a worn window seal binding rubber on glass and eventually burning out the motor.

so windows are regulated only by switches ? no relay control block ?

Depends if yr car has the auto window down or up function then there is a relay box located behind the door card.

hi viktor, the relays rarely fail, and all 16v's have the auto up thing, well uk ones anyway. changing window motors always makes them faster, when they get old they slow down. every bx ive ever owned 'more than 10' has had slow electric windows. one thing i have always noticed is the rear windows are always faster than the front ones, i assume because the front ones are used more than the rear ones. an easy temporary fix for slow windows is to grease the side edge of the rubber seal 'as in the part the glass comes into contact with as it runs up/down', you will prolly find they glide up and down much quicker, and it can easily be done tidily so there is no mess/visible grease.


rossco