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door pins

Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:44 pm
by thanuttiscotsman
hi there,
can someone give me an idea of the best ways to get the doors off. i was trying to tap the pins out with hammer - screwdriver but didnt get very far so what is the best route.? or just more brute force? :twisted:

cheers rossco :wink:

Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:19 pm
by jayw
Been ages since i took any off, think the last ones were off the Triton ones Mike P bought (god that was a while ago)...

Anyway, same method you're using, just with a suitable drift/punch. IIRC the bottom ones were always quite easy but care is need on the top ones so as you dont miss the punch & hit the door-top.

What you whipping them off for?

Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:33 pm
by thanuttiscotsman
hi there,
all four of my car doors are dented in some way and some worse than others. none of it my fault thats the way i got the car. left side been slightly scraped along something and the drivers door dented straight in. rear left one is also dented. a got a replacement set from luke with the other bits i got n changed. doors are the last thing before i start a full filling, rubbing down and priming malarky.

rossco

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:30 am
by Anonymous
A dedicated doopin removal tool from Sykes Pikavant (under £20.00) works fine. Or a parallel pin punch (someone taking full weight of door, as its suprising how much this adds to pin's resistance to come out!). They're not too bad, a job, compared to many other cars. Always use new pins, as they are dirt cheap. I think top hinge will only come out downwards if I remember rightly.

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:59 am
by tim leech
We swopped mine on the drivers door at FCS and even using the right tool they can be awkward, make sure you have someone or somthing to take the weight of the door when u do it or it will drop off and make a right mess.

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:24 am
by jayw
thanuttiscotsman wrote:hi there,
all four of my car doors are dented in some way and some worse than others. none of it my fault thats the way i got the car. left side been slightly scraped along something and the drivers door dented straight in. rear left one is also dented. a got a replacement set from luke with the other bits i got n changed. doors are the last thing before i start a full filling, rubbing down and priming malarky.

rossco
Looking forward to seeing this motor when it's finished, looks like you're building the swan from an ugly duckling :shock:

It's all worth it in the end though if you get the results you hope for!

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:55 am
by Timmo
i bought a long pin punch set of ebay for £7 i htink it was for the purpose of swapping th edoor over on mine! tapping the top one out was easy as there's plenty of room! (i tapped mine up out the door rather than down!) the bottom was a pain due to the angle to gett he pin in but not to bad! but get someone to help you take the weight of the door! also, i used masking tape and made little labels to mark the wiring loom as i had to take it out the door due to the other door not haveing hte same!!!

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:21 am
by thanuttiscotsman
hi there,
i have already taken the loom out the origional door and its in the drivers footwell, im sure i will have no probs figuring out the plugs. i think i will go the cloth over jack and lift the door that way. then followed by hammer on torque bar to push the pins down :twisted: that will prolly solve it. i think the pins will be ok as long as i dont bend or disfigure them :twisted: . and hey yeh this has been one ugly project. remembering this car came from a field residency filled with boxes of junk and mice in it and had been there for 5 years was dented and full of holes mushed bumpers ripped interior was idling at 3k rpm and nothing in it worked. but been serviced multiple new engine components and parts all round totaling 4k quid now with tinted windows, big sounds, k+n´d and chipped she´s a rocket again, but now its all nearly done just 4 new doors body fill spray and she´ll be looking good. i have got a new regulator and drivers elec mirror coming as no1 leaks and no2 got smashed off the garage wall when reversing? :oops: :roll: but there is still alot ot be done on the repairs side. still needs the dreaded octopus :evil: and a caliper but ive hopefully got that sorted :wink: and also the welding of the azz end needs zapped up and hammerited 8)
but its all in good hands :D 8)

cheers rossco

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:24 am
by Mike E (uk)
The trick here is to get an adult helper to support the weight of the door.
Then tap the door pin to get it to poke out the bottom.

Then grip the bottom end of the door pin with a small pair of mole grips,

and tap the grips with a hammer to pull the pin out.

Mike

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:25 am
by thanuttiscotsman
aha thanks for the tip mike! will try that :D

Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:01 pm
by Channel Hopper
From first hand experience


WD40 everything the night before
A long (really long - 15") cheapo philips screwdriver from the local autoshop, cut the important bit off, and maybe hacksaw the handle off where the shaft ends in the moulding.
Use this as a drift and tap the pins in the direction of the centre of the door (to the wiring loom).
When the pins are almost out, use an old allen key to punch the remains out, and keep this in place as a temporary pin whilst you get the other one out.

pins

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:30 pm
by Toddman
These will be the doors we took off then :D
Very simple really - just get a decent paralell punch and a hammer and knock the roll pins down whilst someone holds the door.
If you want to get the pins right out just use moleys as Mike suggests.

As mentioned biggest hassle is making sure you don't hammer the good doors to death whilst trying to hit he punch

Cheers
Luke

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:39 pm
by Dave
After all the suggestions bit late in the day now but this is what I do (or did)

Obtained a long thin bolt and matching nut. The bolt has to fit inside the pin of course. I ground down the nut so it would just fit inside the hinges but not inside the pins. When in place take a good length (about a foot) of strong round section steel with a groove cut out of one end. Place this above the hinge but under the bolt head and you can tap upwards with a hammer. This removes the pin with no risk to the hinge area at all.

Not the quickest method to put together but worth it.