Hydraulic lifters suppliers - any recomendations
Hydraulic lifters suppliers - any recomendations
I will be putting a cylinder head together for the Bx in the coming weeks and will be fitting new hydraulic lifters.
Has any one got experience / recommendations of suppliers and any price paid figures
Mike P.
Has any one got experience / recommendations of suppliers and any price paid figures
Mike P.
Founder member of the Phase 1 Appreciation Society!
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'88 'F' White Bx16v - 62k miles & as seen on TV
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'88 'F' White Bx16v - 62k miles & as seen on TV
tappets
I priced them up a while back at citroen IIRC they work out at about £25 each so not nice but do you really need to replace the full set as they can be serviced.
You can try some of the places on th emainsite links page such as QEP and HiFlow
Cheers
Luke
You can try some of the places on th emainsite links page such as QEP and HiFlow
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
tappy?
Additives are no use for our tappets.
Best chance is a full flush with parafin run til hot hen drain and refill with good oil.
If needs be you can takle out the tappets nad strip them down I think Alan has done this before but I have always managed to save mine with a good flush.
Cheers
Luke
Best chance is a full flush with parafin run til hot hen drain and refill with good oil.
If needs be you can takle out the tappets nad strip them down I think Alan has done this before but I have always managed to save mine with a good flush.
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
flush
What I do is drain the oil when hot then fill with parafin.MoRtYMer wrote:Can you explain exactly the proceading to flush the tappets? mine are very noisy...
That flushing with parafin is done without opening the engine (or head cover)?
run engine at idle or no more than 2k until hot again then drain and turn the engimne oive rby hand to expel as much parafin as possible.
Then change the filter and fill with good oil then run up again and then just chanmge the oil a little soone rthan your normal service ibterval.
It costs almost nothing to do and cleans out lots of crud from the engine.
I know some mechanics prefer to use an oil and diesel mix but I just stick to the old fashioned way.
Cheers
Luke
Last edited by Toddman on Thu Apr 19, 2007 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Please call me Luke
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
I follow this fairly precisely:
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/E ... 6vhead.pdf
page 12 just about sums it up but it mentions something I think most people miss and that is that some components should be lightly "greased" upon reassembly. Not enough to block oil circulation, but greased not oiled.
Burping of the tappets is important and is one of those things that's easier to see being done than to describe in words. One addition I did which I feel played an important part, was when I reassembled, I was doing an engine that had been stripped by someone who hadn't bothered to keep the tappets identified as to where they came from, so I had to hand fit every one and 16 things being fitted in 16 holes gives a wide range of possible combinations.
When I eventually was satisfied with where I had placed them, I greased as per instructions but then went one further by trying to roughly align the hole in the side of the bucket with the hole in the head that feeds it. Now whilst I know there's nowhere that says that this has or needs to be done, my reckoning was that the closer to alignment these holes were, the less distance the oil needed to travel through the oil groove that feeds it and the more constant the oil pressure would be to the tappets. I found mine were extremely quiet on that job.
Another thing I found interesting was when I set the cambelt to 100% accuracy (so described due to the way the pins slipped so easily in & out even after the engine had been run) by using a camlock in conjunction with the pins, I noticed that the intermittent rattle when first started had disappeared. (Don't ask me to explain that one)
The only time we have ever had to replace hydraulic tappets in one of these engines was when not only were they noisy, but also the engine was also losing oil pressure due to the amount that was pouring out the sides of the buckets.
Price will make your eyes water as you get two prices; one for the buckets and a second price for the actual internal piston. Out here it costs more for a complete set of tappets than even we can ever hope to get for a decent car, so I'd imagine over there whilst still a lot cheaper than our prices, still will be a somewhat daunting cost.
Hope that's some help for you.
Alan S
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/E ... 6vhead.pdf
page 12 just about sums it up but it mentions something I think most people miss and that is that some components should be lightly "greased" upon reassembly. Not enough to block oil circulation, but greased not oiled.
Burping of the tappets is important and is one of those things that's easier to see being done than to describe in words. One addition I did which I feel played an important part, was when I reassembled, I was doing an engine that had been stripped by someone who hadn't bothered to keep the tappets identified as to where they came from, so I had to hand fit every one and 16 things being fitted in 16 holes gives a wide range of possible combinations.
When I eventually was satisfied with where I had placed them, I greased as per instructions but then went one further by trying to roughly align the hole in the side of the bucket with the hole in the head that feeds it. Now whilst I know there's nowhere that says that this has or needs to be done, my reckoning was that the closer to alignment these holes were, the less distance the oil needed to travel through the oil groove that feeds it and the more constant the oil pressure would be to the tappets. I found mine were extremely quiet on that job.
Another thing I found interesting was when I set the cambelt to 100% accuracy (so described due to the way the pins slipped so easily in & out even after the engine had been run) by using a camlock in conjunction with the pins, I noticed that the intermittent rattle when first started had disappeared. (Don't ask me to explain that one)
The only time we have ever had to replace hydraulic tappets in one of these engines was when not only were they noisy, but also the engine was also losing oil pressure due to the amount that was pouring out the sides of the buckets.
Price will make your eyes water as you get two prices; one for the buckets and a second price for the actual internal piston. Out here it costs more for a complete set of tappets than even we can ever hope to get for a decent car, so I'd imagine over there whilst still a lot cheaper than our prices, still will be a somewhat daunting cost.
Hope that's some help for you.
Alan S
http://forum.405mi16.com/index.php?showtopic=449&st=0Mi16 Hydraulic tappets, New still in bag unopened, Brought from QEP over a year ago but never used, £40
Cheers
Ziga
Don't run your life on diesel
Have to be registered to see that thoughMandic wrote:http://forum.405mi16.com/index.php?showtopic=449&st=0Mi16 Hydraulic tappets, New still in bag unopened, Brought from QEP over a year ago but never used, £40
Cheers
Ziga
I am due a oil change soon as its about 12 months since the last one even though shes done less than 500miles. Is there a good quality engine flush I could use instead of parafin?, purely as I dont change the oil myself due to lack of tools and I cant see work agreeing to fill then engine full of parafin for safaty reasons.
Thanks
Thanks
same ad...Vanny wrote:Have to be registered to see that thoughMandic wrote:http://forum.405mi16.com/index.php?showtopic=449&st=0Mi16 Hydraulic tappets, New still in bag unopened, Brought from QEP over a year ago but never used, £40
Cheers
Ziga
http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.ph ... =70208&hl=
Cheers
Ziga
Last edited by Mandic on Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Don't run your life on diesel
in retrospect it only took second to register on the 405 forum!
Tim, you can buy WYNN's oil flush off the shelf, but i am reliably informed that all thats in it is diesel and colouring and additives. Personally i just chuck a half litre of diesel into the oil and run it till the fans come on, then let it cool and drain the whole lot off! It makes an amazing difference to what you get out. Deffinately a job worth doing imho
Tim, you can buy WYNN's oil flush off the shelf, but i am reliably informed that all thats in it is diesel and colouring and additives. Personally i just chuck a half litre of diesel into the oil and run it till the fans come on, then let it cool and drain the whole lot off! It makes an amazing difference to what you get out. Deffinately a job worth doing imho
sorry to revive an old thread but since these cars (including mine) are prone to getting tappety I thought this page might be useful for others:
the lower half of http://www.taylor-eng.com/16v_head/16v_head.htm
the lower half of http://www.taylor-eng.com/16v_head/16v_head.htm