Ok problem solved.
There wasn't a air leak, they changed the coil (i think that the name, its the part where comes the cable to the dizzy) and it was ok... Before they changed the ignition amp but no result from that so they put back the old one.
The plugs they fitted are Bosch Super Plus (plus YTTRIUM) - FGR7DQE+.
Well the car now revs much better than ever before (at least since i've bought the car), got to go for a "fun" drive to check if it accels better too.
Problems...
Ok checked the problem today.
The hose that goes in to the radiator is hot so the thermostat should be ok.
Now the hose that goes from the radiator to the engine, that one is too cold... So it might be so cold that the fan switch is too cold to start the fans when the temperature at the thermostat is ok to start it...
I've talked to the mechanic and he told me that the radiator should be obstructed so it needs to be cleaned...
I'll have to have the heater on so i can use the car, so the car looks like a sauna... lol
It is dificult to remove the radiator? Do i need to take the fans off so i can take the radiator off?
The hose that goes in to the radiator is hot so the thermostat should be ok.
Now the hose that goes from the radiator to the engine, that one is too cold... So it might be so cold that the fan switch is too cold to start the fans when the temperature at the thermostat is ok to start it...
I've talked to the mechanic and he told me that the radiator should be obstructed so it needs to be cleaned...
I'll have to have the heater on so i can use the car, so the car looks like a sauna... lol
It is dificult to remove the radiator? Do i need to take the fans off so i can take the radiator off?
plugs
On the plugs front it is BCP7ET.
The number rises the cooler th eplug runs at so a 7 runs cooler than a 6.
In practise you can usually see the difference in the heat rating by looking at the clearance between the centre electrode insulation and the body of the plug - the bigger the gap the better the cooling.
Does sound like you need to clean and flush/bleed the sooling system Mortymer, worth fitting a diesel fan switch as well if you haven't already.
Cheers
Luke
The number rises the cooler th eplug runs at so a 7 runs cooler than a 6.
In practise you can usually see the difference in the heat rating by looking at the clearance between the centre electrode insulation and the body of the plug - the bigger the gap the better the cooling.
Does sound like you need to clean and flush/bleed the sooling system Mortymer, worth fitting a diesel fan switch as well if you haven't already.
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
Well the radiator was cleaned this week, the thermostat changed and of course the system flushed, but the problem still continues... There is a little change on the temperature, but still gets higher than before...
And the other day, i've gone up to 5500 rpm's in 4th and after 1 minute, the car was working very bad, when i accelerated it didn't go upper than 2000 and was misfiring...
I've turn the engine off waited some time, and then the car was ok again...
Now the engine is "failing" below 2000rpms most of the time... runs rough below 2000 rpms most of the time.
When they changed the spark plugs on the car, they have adjusted the CO level on the car, it was on 1.5 and they adjusted it to 0.90... Could that be causing the temperature problems? Is it worth it to go there and get the CO level to 1.50 again?
And the other day, i've gone up to 5500 rpm's in 4th and after 1 minute, the car was working very bad, when i accelerated it didn't go upper than 2000 and was misfiring...
I've turn the engine off waited some time, and then the car was ok again...
Now the engine is "failing" below 2000rpms most of the time... runs rough below 2000 rpms most of the time.
When they changed the spark plugs on the car, they have adjusted the CO level on the car, it was on 1.5 and they adjusted it to 0.90... Could that be causing the temperature problems? Is it worth it to go there and get the CO level to 1.50 again?
heat
The car will usually run hotter when a weaker mixture is used so that ,may be part of the problem.
It might be worth checking the temp senders just incase one is causing the ecu to do eratic things.
It could even be the coil or ign amp breaking down due to heatsoak I know a few people have said the coil is not exactly mounted in a healthy place.
Cheers
Luke
It might be worth checking the temp senders just incase one is causing the ecu to do eratic things.
It could even be the coil or ign amp breaking down due to heatsoak I know a few people have said the coil is not exactly mounted in a healthy place.
Cheers
Luke
Please call me Luke
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch
1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch